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Whisky Review: Royal Lochnagar Selected Reserve 2009

We review Royal Lochnagar Selected Reserve, a 2009 bottling of non age stated Scotch single malt whisky from the central Cairngorms in Scotland.

OVERALL RATING

9
  • Kirk Sig is a whisky connoisseur known for his candid and investigative approach to whisky reviews.
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Tasting Notes

About:

; 700 ml; 2009 bottling; 43% ABV; refill sherry butts; 2982 bottles produced; price varies greatly.
Appearance:
Deep amber in color with regular beading that points to the presence of old spirit mixed in with the rest. I’m sorry to say that this beading is nothing like a “royal crown,” so to speak, but it is respectable. I just love when a whisky beads up into a crown with sparkling yellow diamonds. For example, Highland Park’s 40 Year Old displays a magnificent crown in one’s glass.
Nose:
The malty and fruity nature imparts an intense though pleasurable aroma. This reveals the fact that the whisky was aged in refill sherry butts and casks. I detect some high quality oak tannin, along with Pledge furniture polish (which can be found in older Springbanks and Glen Grants). In addition, there are notes of date, golden raisin, dried King Bolete mushroom, star anise, and a trace of gunpowder. The last note gives me a twinge of dread, as I detest more than trace amounts of “the devil’s cologne.” Let’s find out if sulfur on the nose becomes more noticeable when this whisky is sipped.
Palate:
A creamy mouth-feel cradles the tongue elegantly. Malt meets oak, conjuring up flavors of dark chocolate, French roast coffee, burnt rye toast, black truffle, wood varnish, and cedar. On second sip, after my mouth has adjusted to the broth, I begin tasting fruity and floral notes, such as apricot, raspberry, cowslip flower, and witch fingers (grapes). Vanilla extract and a touch of mint are also faintly detectable to the more discerning palate.

Overall, the whisky’s oak presence is less bitter than expected. Younger and middle aged spirits are pulling their weight. That’s just fine with me, as sweeter notes do not bully the dram into submission. This allows more delicate flavors to stretch out, making their presence known. I’m also happy to report no trace of “devil’s cologne.” Goodbye sulfur, and good riddance.

Medium in length, the finish allows itself to be savored. At the death, one is left with a trace of malty sweetness, which almost seems to defy gravity: tìoraidh!
Finish:
Comments:

Most people will only encounter Royal Lochnagar Selected Reserve at auction. The 2009 bottling is quite respectable, not to mention rare, but I wouldn’t pay more than $150. Despite this fact, I found the nose and palate to be anything but common. Perhaps most of all, I really appreciated the black truffle note. It was just fantastic without any unwelcome earthiness, or fustiness, which can sometimes burrow their way into a cask like earthworms.rnrnForget the Royal Warrant. This ‘ere bottle of hooch shall henceforth bear the Whisky Kirk Seal of Approval . . . or not. Come what may, Royal Lochnagar can’t say I didn’t offer to buy a few gold stickers at the dollar store. Hey, before you roll your eyes, it’s worth mentioning that I probably know more about single malt Scotch whisky than Prince Albert and Queen Victoria ever did.


Editor’s Note: This whiskey was either bought as a sample by The Whiskey Wash or provided to us as a review sample by the party behind it. Per our editorial policies, this in no way influenced the outcome of this review.

Whisky Kirk

Kirk Sig's fascination with Scottish whisky ignited in 1987 during a visit to Edinburgh. In the ensuing three and a half decades, he has cultivated an extensive understanding of distilleries, the whisky industry, and the global whisky landscape.

Kirk prides himself on providing candid and unvarnished reviews, eschewing the prevalent flattery and fluff that often permeate whisky commentary. This direct approach has occasionally ruffled feathers in influential circles, which he views as a testament to his commitment to prioritize the interests of the consumer.

Embracing the spirit of investigative journalism, Kirk's reviews delve deeper, leaving no stone—or cask—unturned. He believes in transparency and ensures that readers are privy to any noteworthy findings, fostering an informed and empowered whisky community.

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