Whisky Review: Glenglassaugh 40-Year-Old

Delicate syrups roll over the tongue without feeling oily, almost as though it evaporates in media res . However, there is no alcohol burn. To say this dram is smooth would be something of an understatement. I love how the marriage between oak, whisky, and sherry has been consummated over forty long years–a “beckoning fair one,” indeed. The Oloroso influence seems rather dry in the mouth, evoking jammy figs, apricots, plums, rhubarb. Macadamia nuts are cradled by a ubiquitous yet unimposing oak foundation, which isn’t bitter in the least. The sample in my glass is three quarters gone now. As my mouth and brain have grown accustomed to the broth, I’m happy to report lightly roasted coffee beans, along with Abuelita Mexican hot chocolate. There even seems to be a touch of steamed rice milk with almond syrup. Marvelous, just marvelous. Finish: Well, the denouement is not what I would call long. In fact, this whisky’s finish is barely medium in length. But a woody-marshmallowy-sweet impression haunts the mouth in the best of ways. I might also add that my dram is really “neat.” By this, I mean to say that a light sprinkling of water does nothing to improve the quality, the depth, or the complexity. Rallfy Mitchell might disagree, with teaspoon in hand, but I really must hold my ground. Lovely stuff–this–at full strength, thank you very much. Final Thoughts I suppose the main drawback to this Glenglassaugh 40-Year-Old lies in the fact that it doesn’t present much in the way of a challenge. It’s exceedingly agreeable, smooth, and civilized. The finish is medium-short, and sweet as pie. I’ve read about previous 40-year-olds, released by Glenglassaugh, that sounded far more complex, offering everything from hints of metal polish to pineapple glazed ham. In other words, there are no savory or industrial influences in this 42.5% bottling. If I were angling to spend upwards of $1,300 on a whisky, I might want a bit more in the way of a challenge. But that’s me. I’m sure that plenty of folks with pockets that deep would rather just sip a delicious dram and think about other things. (Speaking of which . . . in my review of the Springbank 16-Year-Old Local Barley , you will find a discussion of forty-plus-year-old Springbank releases that contain both savory and industrial notes, by the way.) I also find it interesting that the Glenglassaugh 40-Year-Old is quite a bit lighter in color than the 30-Year-Old. I guess the younger spirit hails from casks with more sherry left in the wood? Darker isn’t always better, however. That’s worth remembering, especially in a very old spirit that has been allowed to retain a decent amount of distillery character. It’s also worth mentioning that Glenglassaugh has released two batches of venerable old single malts. The first batch includes eight whiskies that range from 28 to 45 years old. The second batch also consists of eight releases, this bunch ranging from 36-42 years old. All of them are reputed to be “fruit bombs.” I didn’t see anything on Glenglassaugh’s website, or in any related whisky reviews online, which pointed to much in the way of savory notes, spicy notes, or industrial notes. For a distillery that died and came back from the dead more times than I can count, Glenglassaugh sure created a lot of well mannered “offspring.” I’m sure that these bottled spirits are more than happy to “speak their names,” if one holds a glass to one’s ear. They have all the charm of the Belle at the Ball, rather than the Bad Boy who was mothballed. As for the secret history of an “undead” distillery, I’m relieved to say that this yarn has a happy ending, thanks to Benriach. Slainte mhath . May the river, the tide, and good spirits, rise with you. I have yet to try any of the younger NAS core offerings, but they seem intriguing. Perhaps one or two might stray into the realm of spicy, savory, and industrial. On the other hand, I’m a sucker for older age statement whiskies that cover all three bases, and then tag home plate (sweet). For me, that sort of complexity is a Babe Ruth-style home run, at least when it’s done right. Judging by the reviews I’ve seen of the discontinued 40 Year Old 44.6% offering, that seems to have been the case. The darkly dangerous broth is rumored to contain spices, smoked meats, and plenty of succulent fruits, as well as chocolaty goodness. Ah, well. The grass is always greener. Especially when the late great Jim Murray tantalizes you with 96 points from beyond the grave. That’s right. A past year of his Whisky Bible gave it one of the highest scores of all time. Score: 93/100 [ SHOP FOR A BOTTLE OF GLENGLASSAUGH 40-YEAR-OLD ] *Note: Portions of this review have been embellished in true Lovecraftian fashion. For instance, the author is not advocating the existence of selkies, nor human contact with them. Neither is the author alleging, unequivocally, that Glenglassaugh distillery has been, or currently is “haunted” by spirits other than those which have been poured into casks. Furthermore, the Old Glenglassaugh Windmill was most certainly NOT constructed by a mad monk in the late Middle Ages. In fact, it’s a beautiful old building, which is a credit to Glenglassaugh distillery, as well as other scenic aspects of the surrounding countryside. As most people know, quite a few Scottish whisky distilleries’ legends have been embellished, and sometimes even created out of thin air. This review is dedicated to the tall tales that help to make drinking Scotch whisky a lively and fun experience. Part satirical and part factual, it walks a fine line between hyperbole, humor, background information, and tasting notes that were written quite in earnest from a deliciously rewarding 3cl sample.