42.5% ABV, bourbon and sherry casks, Official Bottling 2014
A heavenly marriage of fruit and wood exudes grace and charm. Scents of lovely balsa, papaya, delicate grapefruit citrus note, overripe banana, agave syrup, and high quality bourbon rise to the fore. Another wave of impressions follow, if one has the presence of mind to nose the dram from side to side, and back a little from the glass, rather than head-on. Now, Im getting almonds, graham cracker pie crust, white chocolate, and dried fruits, such as dehydrated apricots and golden raisins. A touch of mint also makes its presence knownthanks to oak found in venerable old casks. Springbanks also impart that delicate minty note in really good single barrels, which are 18-20 years of age, or higher. It should be said of the dram in front of me, that all the above elements are united, quite remarkably, in conjugal bliss.
Again, the integration is seamless and masterful. Theres so much going on! Upon ones tongue, the fruit is not so prominent, allowing vintage oak and furniture polish to surface in the best of ways. I love the waxiness that comes next. It reminds me of a very old Clynelish, and also harkens back to the good ole Benriachs of decades ago.
Who says the best casks are gone? A decadent swirl of caramelly milk chocolate enchants the senses. Yes, the dairy note is nicely prominent, giving the dram a creamy satisfying mouth feel at full strength. On the back end, tropical fruit emerges with fresh mango, papaya, and guava. The fruit tastes overripealmost jammydue to sugars in the cask wood mellowing over time. Just lovely.
Not to be outdone, the finish hangs on like a sergeant. The palpable sense of time is here, imparting regal pomp and circumstance to old oak, in addition to a blush of sherry notes, which co-mingle with just the right amount of spiciness to balance out the sweetness. Yes, a little cinnamon bark is coming through now, and this accent helps to balance the overall impression.
On the death, one is left with balsa wood, along with a twist of sweet nuttiness, akin to marshmallow nougat.
For me, Benriach 35-Year-Old is a rare treat. Its a little out of my price range, and hard to find in the United States. Over in the UK, it can still be located in quite a few shops, hovering up near $500 for a 750 ml bottle. By the time autumn rolls around, I wouldnt be surprised if the price exceeds $500, especially as the British pound makes its inevitable come-back.
Of course, this will likely happen after Brexit histrionics have passed, and the Bank of England reveals a pair of gleaming fangs from out behind the tapestry. Presto: now you dont see it, now you do! I also predict that the Euro will suffer, perhaps even more than the American dollar in time, and that will affect the price of this charming bottle of Benriach single malt Scotch. In other words, the time to buy is now . . . if you are so inclined.
Alas, alack, theres really no substitute for Father Time, along with good whisky wash, and well-tended, high-quality casks. Sometimes the old adage, you get what you pay for, is true, but not always. In the case of Benriachs 35 Year Old official bottling, unfortunately for many, the evidence speaks for itself. Money talks.
FINAL SCORE: 93/100
