Editor’s Note: This whiskey was provided to us as a review sample by Sweetens Cove. This in no way, per our editorial policies, influenced the final outcome of this review. It should also be noted that by clicking the buy link towards the bottom of this review our site receives a small referral payment which helps to support, but not influence, our editorial and other costs.
Kentucky and Tennessee, two neighboring states, are defined in part by the comparisons and contrasts of their two native American whiskey styles. Both produce bourbon, but what’s considered that brown spirit in one versus the other creates a rivalry that far transcends the Jim vs Jack debate. It is into this conflict that Sweetens Cove and its master blender Marianne Eaves have stepped with their recent Kennessee release.
Before proceeding further with this review, one should consider for a moment the historical context of the term “Kennessee.” It is, according to this definition, “a term coined to denote land along the Kentucky – Tennessee state border” that was, at one point, in dispute of ownership between the two states. It was said that, even after this dispute was settled, if one owned or squatted on land right on the border, “they lived in Kennessee.”
So, knowing this, it is an interesting naming Sweetens Cove has used for this expression. It was said of it by brand co-founder Mark Rivers at the time of launch that “each state has its own legacy and lore, characters and culture, with a common state line. Kennessee is a delicious harmony of the two.”
Harmony, indeed. Not exactly initially the right way to think about it when the previously mentioned bourbon rivalry comes into play. Enter Eaves though, who has worked and lived on both sides of the state line. It is, in part, through this experience, that she came ultimately to a blending of select Kentucky and Tennessee bourbons and the finishing of this blend with toasted sugar maple wood. More specifically, she created a base blend of select whiskeys, finishing them in a stainless steel tank with the addition of special wood spirals made from the sugar maple wood before final filtration, proofing and bottling.
“The use of toasted sugar maple to me is like a Kentuckian’s take on Tennessee’s Lincoln county process, adding flavors (mostly sweet and nutty) through the intentional deep toast instead of the way charcoal removes flavors and ‘mellows’ the whiskey,” Eaves said to me in an interview when we initially previewed this whiskey pre-launch. “We make it bolder.”
Sweetens Cove has positioned this product as more of a casual drinker versus the brand’s high profile, ultra premium sipping bourbon that is released annually (see our 2020 and 2021 reviews for reference). Does this more relaxed offering have the wherewithal to blend two of America’s most beloved whiskey regions? Let’s find out.
Tasting Notes: Sweetens Cove Kennessee
Vital Stats: A blending of select Kentucky and Tennessee bourbons, finished in stainless steel tanks with the addition of special wood spirals made from sugar maple wood. Bottled at 55.35% ABV. Prices around $60 per 750 ml bottle. It is initially available in Colorado, Georgia, Indiana, Kentucky, Louisiana, Nevada, South Carolina, Tennessee and Texas, with plans to expand further across the U.S. in 2022.
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Appearance: A light to medium golden brown color. A swirl of the Glencairn glass showcases significant structure in the legs in the glass.
Nose: Warm and inviting, with toasted indulgences. Hints of orange, vanilla, maple, butterscotch. Light reflections of spice.
Palate: Fullness and richness immediately envelop the palate, alongside a touch of heat. Again spice, as in the nose, offset by some sweetness. Maple candy, vanilla, coriander, black pepper, cotton candy, orange slice. A depth here displayed in the mouth that finds footing and appeasement to the taste buds quite quickly. The finish is delicate and lingering, leaving behind an essence of sweetness that makes a dessert desired next.
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