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Whisky Review: Hammerhead 28-Year-Old Czech Single Malt Whisky

We review Hammerhead 28 Year Old, a rare expression made in then Soviet Union-aligned Czechoslovakia (now the Czech Republic) that was an attempt to produce a Scotch-style whisky.

OVERALL RATING

9
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Hammerhead 28-Year-Old

Tasting Notes

About:

28-year-old single malt whisky made with Czech barley and Scottish peat, and aged in new Czech oak barrels. Bottled at cask strength and sold for roughly $350 per bottle.
Appearance:
Not much to say about this one, it’s a fairly typical golden amber and pretty much the average for a whisky.
Nose:
While sweet from the get-go, this release of Hammerhead is also much more subtle than I expected. The whisky starts off with a faint scent of vanilla as well as still fainter notes of sweet apple, cinnamon, and flowers. That gradually aroma gets richer and earthier moving toward more of a molasses with heavier notes allspice and baked apple, a touch of lavender, and an undertone of mellow oak.
Palate:
The whisky hits the tongue like sweet but delicate clover honey with a bit of allspice and orange zest giving it a more complex entry than usual. As it sits on the tongue, it gradually gains a bit of apple-like sweetness while also developing spicier notes of clove and oak with a hint of peat in the background. Clove eventually becomes the dominant flavor as the spiciness build on the tongue and reaches a dull roar, while still leaving room for the peat and oak. Swallowing sends a burst of clove throughout the mouth before that gradually settles back into a smoky, oaky honey that lightly coats the tongue, occasionally punctuated by flares of spice.
Finish:
Comments:

Hammerhead 28 Year Old quite impressed me with the smoothness, subtly, balance, and symmetry it achieves despite being basically forgotten for decades. This whisky manages to capture some of the flavors of Scotch while showing some of the delicateness of a Japanese whisky. Although I wouldn’t spend $350 on a bottle, the lucky 300 who do get their hands on a bottle of Hammerhead 28 are certainly in for an unusually complex treat.


Editor’s Note: This whiskey was either bought as a sample by The Whiskey Wash or provided to us as a review sample by the party behind it. Per our editorial policies, this in no way influenced the outcome of this review.

Aaron Knapp

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