Editor’s Note: This whiskey was provided to us as a review sample by the party behind it. This in no way, per our editorial policies, influenced the final outcome of this review. It should also be noted that by clicking the buy link in this review our site receives a small referral payment which helps to support, but not influence, our editorial and other costs.
Since 2014, Wildwood Spirits has dedicated itself to crafting premium spirits using the finest organic and locally sourced ingredients, many of which are grown in the Pacific Northwest. Founded by Erik Liedholm, an accomplished sommelier and wine director for John Howie’s renowned Seattle restaurants, Wildwood Spirits was inspired by Erik’s passion for distillation, initially as a hobby making grappa.
Alongside John Howie, Liedholm’s vision was to apply the same meticulous approach to spirits as winemaking, resulting in whiskeys aged in hand-coopered, artisan oak barrels, among other products.
The distillery and tasting room are located at Beardslee Public House in Bothell, WA—a brewery part of Howie’s restaurant portfolio. What I’m reviewing here is their five-year-old Rendition Straight Rye Whiskey. Liedholm and Howie source the rye from Indiana, and with the mash bill consisting of ninety-five percent rye and five percent barley malt, I assume from MGP. This is not surprising since rye grain is difficult to work with. However, the Rendition Rye does not go straight into the bottle right away.
Wildwood Spirits Co. does make its own bourbon, with organic grain locally sourced in Washington State. The empty barrels from The Dark Door Bourbon are filled with the sourced rye for almost six months before hand bottling and labeling. The goal with ex-bourbon barrel finishing is to soften the aggressiveness, or hotness, rye tends to give off.
Tasting Notes: Wildwood Spirits Rendition Rye
Vital Stats: 45% ABV, 90 proof; Indiana-sourced Rye whiskey bottled in Bothell, Washington; The mash bill consists of 95% rye and 5% barley malt; 750ml; $65.
Appearance: Amber
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Nose: The whiskey is pungent with acetone at the forefront. You have to force your nose to delve deeper and push on to discover the unique bouquet. Right underneath the acetone is freshly peeled Granny Smith apple. The brightness then becomes warmer and more subtle as almond extract washes over. Afterward, a touch of maraschino liqueur comes through with orange blossom water. The whiskey comes off as an undiluted cocktail despite the harshness of the acetone at the beginning.
Palate: Although the nose offers an array of notes, the palate is the opposite. The oak is blandly overpowering. The maraschino and almond extract are battling it out to be the frontrunner. The spice from the rye is more peppery than it is baking spice.
Once opened up with a few drops of water or a splash of soda, the whiskey becomes a bit more balanced. There are still plenty of bold flavors, but you can find the nuances hiding. As the finish lingers, I get maple syrup on my breath; nothing too sweet but pleasant all the same.
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