It’s a small world, after all. Located less than 10 miles from a house I once lived in, Cotswolds is the name of both a new distillery and the region of England to the northwest of Oxford in which it operates.
Cotswolds Distillery focuses their efforts on the production of gin and single malt whisky in addition so various other bottlings. The operation is so new, in fact, that the inaugural release of their first single malt will not be officially launched until October of 2017 at the earliest. In the interim, the distillery has made test batch sets available for the public at large to be able to taste the progress being made.
The second in the series of these sets is currently available. Today we will exploring the first set. The spirits in these sets are intended to become whisky, but they have not yet aged the requisite three years to be legally designated as such in the United Kingfom. Hence, the samples are labeled simply as spirits.
Single-malt-whiskies-that-are-otherwise-not-Scotch seems to be a booming category all its own as of late. There are, of course, Irish single malts, but American, Japanese, Indian, and single malts of numerous other nationalities are finding their way to markets around the world. The English are not looking to be left behind in this regard. As such, the Cotswolds Distillery in Stourton is now up and running, complete with tours and spirit tastings.
As I mentioned in the opening, I used to live near where this distillery is now located. My family and I lived there while my late father was stationed at a nearby American military installation. He was also my first introduction to whisky when he would set a steaming hot toddy in front of me to chase away the sniffles. It was the most disgusting thing I had ever tasted, and it quite nearly steered me clear of any and all spirits permanently. I grew out of it, obviously. Seeing the name “Cotswolds” on the test batch box brought a smile to my face, as I am sure it would have for my dad. Special thanks to Whisky Kirk for passing this assignment onto me.
Included in the first test batch series from Cotswolds Distillery are three bottles, each measuring 200ml. The first bottle is non-aged new make spirit, virtually fresh from the still. The second bottle is ex-sherry cask matured spirit, aged for five months in 50 liter casks. The grandfather of the lineup is the ancient ex-wine cask matured spirit which was aged for a whopping 10 months.
The set itself is quite attractive. The labeling is classic and clear, not unlike Buffalo Trace Experimental Series releases. The information included gives decent insight into each incarnation of whisky. It should be noted that the corks on the stoppers leave a lot to be desired. They are both too spongy and ill-fitting. This leaves the corks shedding prematurely, as well as the stoppers working their way loose while being stored. Details, details.
Tasting Notes: Costwolds Distillery New Make Spirit
Vital Stats: 63.5% ABV (127 proof), non aged new make spirit, 100% malted barley, formerly available in this set for £65 or roughly $80 at the time of this writing.
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Appearance: Crystal clear. So clear, in fact, I actually did not see the whisky in the glass I had poured as it sat next to two empty glasses and I nearly spilt it. Fine, quick legs.
Nose: Intense. Floral, fruity, fiery, and quite potent. Singes the nose hairs a bit. Definitely identifiable as new make as soon as it gets within range of the nose. Notes of industrial cleaners used on electronic components, very dark apple butter. The apple notes take over as the spirit set in the glass while I gather my courage to dive in. Stewed apples. Hint of cinnamon sticks.
Palate: Fiery and fruity, just like the nose. Long and intense burn. Makes the lips tingle on the first taste, and each subsequent taste. Somewhat thin and almost powdery mouthfeel. Definitely on the fruity end of the spectrum. Notes of green apple and pear. Bit of spearmint and even a little maple syrup.
Final Thoughts & Score:
Score: 70/100
An interesting insight into the process, but far from my chosen dram. Just try to hold on and enjoy the ride. It’s a rough one.
Tasting Notes: Costwolds Distillery Ex-Sherry Cask Matured Spirit
Vital Stats: 62.4% ABV (124.8 proof), aged five months, 100% malted barley, formerly available in this set for around £65 or roughly $80 at the time of this writing.
Appearance: Hazelnut brown, amber, and patina green. Medium legs.
Nose: Young and punchy. Floral, fruity, lightly oaky. The transformation after five months is profound. The ABV is similar, yet the nuances are coming out of the ex-sherry release, whereas the new make was subtle as a sledgehammer. The nose opens after a few minutes to release cinnamon raisin bread, light cocoa, copper, mint, and thickly varnished wood. The malt notes are starting to become apparent in this release.
Palate: Far more friendly. Early cocoa notes, like a white chocolate mocha. Hard cinnamon candies, copper, mint, and a touch of ash. Intense and long burn, but not nearly as abrasive as the new make.
Final Thoughts & Score:
Score: 82/100
All in all, quite a sophisticated presentation in a very short amount of time. I will be very keen to try this when the final bottling hits the market.
Tasting Notes: Costwolds Distillery Ex-Wine Cask Matured Spirit
Vital Stats: 63% ABV (126 proof), aged 10 months, 100% malted barley, formerly available in this set for £65 or roughly $80 at the time of this writing.
Appearance: Light copper, amber tones, reddish pink on the periphery. Quick legs.
Nose: Softest nose of the three. Bold wine notes coming through. Floral and fruity, as seems to be the trend in the lineup. Less of a singe in the nose, but the cleaning chemical smell makes a solid return. Clean.
Palate: Almost, but not quite a slight saltiness on the arrival. Bitter and sweet notes clashing in the mid palate. Sweet and delicate. The flavors are wispy and gone almost before you can identify them. Butterscotch, edamame, more muted mint notes than in the previous two. An intense burn as with the first two, but more manageable.
Final Thoughts & Score:
Score: 83/100
Very interesting. Not a lot of malt presence. An intense burn, but another step towards something more approachable. This will also be very interesting to revisit down the road.
The Takeaway:
I sense good things to come from Cotswolds, and I hope it is more than my personal nostalgia speaking. I appreciate when a producer offers a look behind the curtain into their process. For newcomers to do so, it seems all the more intimate. Now, to wait for October 2017.
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