Ezra Brooks is well known in the whiskey community for making well-loved bourbon and rye expressions that are actually affordable to the common man. Currently stationed in Bardstown, Kentucky, Ezra Brooks is a member of the group known as the “Lux Row Distillers”, comprising members such as Rebel Bourbon, David Nicholson, and Blood Oath. Though they’ve been in their current location since 2018, they’ve been making their drams since 1957.
The dram we are looking at today is a little special in some ways as, to my knowledge, production of this expression has ceased in favour of an updated recipe. The new bottles are produced to 99 proof (49.5% ABV), but today’s whiskey is the 90 proof (45% ABV) version. It’s rare to see a distillery increase the strength of its product nowadays. Let’s see if it was the right call.
Burnished, deep brown copper.
Sweet up front, with a tingle of warm golden syrup, granny smith apples and subtle hay notes. Brown sugar and a mild earthy spice undertones tie it all together. Not too strong, not too subtle; well balanced overall.
A immediate hit of sharp chilli and milk chocolate; subtler notes of unripe pear, baked Alaska and melted toffee serve to both add some extra complexity, as well as reel in the intense whirlwind of sweet and spicy presented in the main palate.
Ends more gently than it starts, with straw, warm freshly toasted oak and freshly baked bread welcoming you in after the storm of the main body, complimented with a hint of earl grey for your troubles. Oily and clings well; tingles intensely, but nicely, like soothing popping candy.
For the price point this whiskey was at, this is a great value for money. All of the joys of a rye whiskey with a great deal of complexity, quality, and unique attributes to it. Consider me pleasantly surprised!
This, for me, is the little bottle that could, especially when compared to the quality of its higher-priced contemporaries. Although I haven’t tried the new 99 proof expression, given how intense and complex the palate is on this dram, I feel increasing the ABV might make it too abrasive; however, I would have to try it myself to know for sure.
Despite being so cheap, this is certainly a dram best enjoyed neat, perhaps with ice or a bit of water to help dull down the whiskey’s bite a smidge. This is a great beginner-to-intermediate whiskey for getting into rye.
However, I personally believe it does have a shortcoming or two. It’s not great with a mixer, for example, which also makes it unsuitable for most cocktails. Shorter cocktails that focus primarily on the complexity of the focal spirit, such as an old fashioned, would benefit from a whiskey like this. However, even a short cocktail with more evenly distributed flavour, such as a Manhattan, might find that this bottle is just a bit too busy and may, unfortunately, muddle the taste of the mixture too much.
Nit-picks aside, this is a great dram for the money and works brilliantly as a neat whiskey for a novice or casual drinker to enjoy (if you can find this bottle nowadays that is)!
