On a grey, rainy day in Manchester, Cù Bòcan Creation #9 feels like exactly the whisky I want in my glass. Named “Sweet and Salty Popcorn,” this lightly peated single malt from Tomatin promises an unusual mix of comfort and coastal character. After spending time with it, I think the name only begins to explain why this bottle works so well.
The first surprise is its value. Every drop is 17 years old, yet the bottle costs less than £50. It is bottled at 46%, with natural colour and no chill filtration.
Part of the whisky spent its full 17 years in American virgin oak; the rest spent 13 years in bourbon casks followed by four years in Manzanilla sherry casks. That is a bold combination, especially with virgin oak in the mix, but Tomatin has made the two sides feel like partners rather than rivals.
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READ THE STORYOn the nose, the virgin oak brings buttery popcorn, caramel, coconut, and a striking cherry-sweet note that reminds me of some excellent bourbons. Fresh pastry and milk chocolate soften the edges. Then the Manzanilla begins to show itself through dry herbs and a savoury, sea-air quality. The peat runs quietly through it all. This is not a whisky that asks you to brace for smoke; it uses smoke to give those sweeter aromas a little more depth.
The palate follows that same pleasing arc. Caramel popcorn and cherry sweets arrive first, followed by toasted coconut, cinnamon and the faintest wisp of smoke. Rosemary-like herbs and a coastal saltiness keep the sweetness in check, while the finish turns warmer and drier, almost like a cinnamon roll left in the oven a touch too long.
A little water draws out more honey and vanilla, but I prefer it neat. At 46%, it already has the balance it needs.
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I would give Creation #9 an 8.5 out of 10. Its cask recipe might look risky on paper, but the result is wonderfully well put together: rich, gently smoky, subtly savoury and remarkably good value.
Tomatin’s peated whisky was not firmly on my radar before this. It certainly is now. Have you tried a Cù Bòcan release that deserves the same attention?
For a more detailed tasting and a closer look at the bottle, you can watch my full video review.
