When we talk about Japanese whisky, we often focus on the final product, its elegance and precision. But the entire industry owes its existence to the monumental efforts of one man, Masataka Taketsuru. Born into a sake brewing family, he undertook an incredible voyage in the early 20th century, leaving Japan for Scotland with a single mission: to learn the secrets of whisky distillation. His journey is the foundational story of every Japanese whisky we enjoy today.
It is easy to take global information for granted now, but back then, this knowledge was not universal. Sake production, involving fermented rice, is a world away from the malting, mashing, and distilling of grains required for whisky. To bridge this gap, Taketsuru travelled to the University of Glasgow to study organic chemistry. We need to remember the context of this undertaking. The journey itself was a month-long voyage, a far cry from a modern flight, demonstrating the sheer commitment required to bring this craft back home.
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While his university studies provided the theoretical foundation, it was his hands-on apprenticeships that truly honed his craft. Taketsuru worked at key distilleries, including the then relatively new Longmorn in Speyside and the historic Hazelburn in Campbeltown. This practical experience gave him a deep understanding of the Scottish method. It was also in Scotland that a rather serendipitous event occurred. He met and married a Scottish woman, Jessie Roberta “Rita” Cowan, whose Campbeltown roots further embedded him in the heart of whisky country.
Upon returning to Japan in 1920, Taketsuru found the company that had sponsored him had folded amidst a post-war economic crash. His prospects looked bleak until he was hired by Shinjiro Torii, who needed the one person in Japan who truly understood Scottish production. Together, they built the Yamazaki Distillery in 1923, the venture that would later become the giant Suntory. After his ten-year contract ended, Taketsuru established his own distillery, Yoichi, in 1934, which grew into the company we now know as Nikka.
In essence, this single, determined man is the common ancestor of Japan’s two largest whisky producers. From his ambitious journey and meticulous study to his pivotal roles at both Yamazaki and Yoichi, his endeavors laid the groundwork for the fantastic world of Japanese whisky we have today. Without him, the landscape would be completely different. It is an incredible story of dedication and vision. What is your favourite expression to come from his enduring legacy?
To find out more about Masataka Taketsuru, and the birth of Japanese whisky, watch my YouTube video.
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