A whisky can win me over without quite convincing me it has reached its best form. That is where I land with the Bruichladdich Yellow Submarine 14-year-old.
Bottled at 54.2% ABV after maturation in first-fill bourbon and French red wine casks, it offers plenty to enjoy. I wanted to find out whether its flavor could overcome the heat that gave me pause when I first opened the bottle.
The nose makes a strong case for this release. Red fruit, vanilla and honey sit alongside floral notes, pepper and a touch of apple. There is also a baked-spice quality that reminds me, in a lighter way, of what I enjoy in Bruichladdich’s 18-year-old.
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The bourbon casks seem to contribute sweetness, while the wine casks bring another dimension to the fruit and spice. I would love to know exactly how the distillery arrived at this balance, because the aromas work together beautifully.
On the palate, apple cake leads the way, followed by spice and a satisfying finish. Having shared roughly half the bottle with people eager to try it, I found this tasting delivered my best sip yet. The whisky has settled into itself since opening: what initially struck me as hot now feels more controlled. Still, there is noticeable alcohol burn at the front of my tongue.
The flavor is good enough that I keep coming back, but I think a bottling strength closer to 48% might have let it shine without asking the drinker to work around the heat.
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READ THE STORYThen there is the question of value. I paid roughly CA$200 for my bottle, which makes that lingering reservation harder to overlook. I love the playful, cartoon-like presentation and Bruichladdich’s coated-bottle look, but packaging rarely affects my score. The liquid has to justify the price on its own.
If you routinely add water to your whisky, you may find the strength an advantage rather than a drawback. I prefer a whisky to feel ready to drink as bottled, even when its higher proof is part of the appeal.
My score is 86, though on a day when the heat stands out more, I could see it falling closer to 84 or 85. I am glad to have this bottle and will enjoy finishing it; I am simply not certain I would buy a backup.
Have you tried the Yellow Submarine 14, and would a little water change your verdict?
For a more detailed tasting and a look at the bottle, you can watch my full video review.
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