Review: SENSES Collection Egan’s Irish Whiskey 23 Years Olds

The SENSES Collection by Liath. All images courtesy of Egan’s Irish Whiskey.

If you would like to head straight to the reviews, please scroll down to the bottom of this article. Otherwise, let’s get a little bit of background on the SENSES Collection, as well as my final thoughts.

About The SENSES Collection

This is a collaboration between Rupert Egan, a whiskey bonder, and the great, great-grandson of Henry Egan – the founder of P&H Egan in Tullamore, County Offaly. Rupert represents the sixth generation of whiskey bonders.

The other half of this project is Damien Gray, chef and owner of the two-star Michelin restaurant, Liath. Having grown up in Australia and worked his way up from the bottom, he is now the proud owner of two Michelin stars, awarded in 2019 and 2022. Liath has a focus on five building blocks: bitter, sour, salt, umami, and sweet.

The goal of this project was to combine algorithmic patterns and instinctive creativity to produce something transformative. A merger of Michelin star gastronomy, and ultra-premium Irish whiskey. In 2023, the SENSES project took 5 single casks of single malt and finished each in a different cask to create these five foundations of taste.

You can purchase the SENSES Collection for $5,500 here.

Whiskeys Similar To The SENSES Collection?

Currently available on the market of whiskey, nothing really touches on the work and effort that have gone into putting this selection together. Between Rupert and Damien, you have far-flung sourcing of casks from all over the world, all to impart flavors to this incredibly unique selection of single malt whiskies.

Yes, The Macallan has teamed up with Roca Brothers for a few limited-release, NAS whiskies, but even with that team of gastronomical minds helping with cask selection or flavor finale, this just has so much more reach and depth to it.

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Rupert is driving casks in rented cars across Ireland and Italy. Sourcing Mezcal casks from Oaxaca and it turning up with liquid still inside it. Just an absolute, 100% dedication to a project that is unlike anything else we’ve seen in whiskey, let alone in Irish whiskey.

What Makes The SENSES Collection A Must-Have For Collectors?

Along with everything that has been mentioned above, can you think of another collection of whiskey, from an ever-expanding and powerful spirits country like Ireland that has ever matched this before?

Five bottles, each with its own unique world cask sourcing for a finishing project. Monitored and bottled with some exceptional looking, never-forgotten bottle designs, all sorted and delivered together in a case that could rival the plate delivery of any food in the finest restaurants in the world. We often see ‘luxury’, ‘premium’, and ‘collectible’ products delivered with Lalique crystal or luxury car partnerships with some over-the-top branding. This is cool, elegant, unforgettable, and so bespoke that it puts so many other things at similar price points to shame.

If you have the money to sit and experience something like this in your home, what are you waiting for? No other brand has ever done anything like this, whether they be Scottish, Irish, American, or Japanese. This pure passion, excitement, unrestrained outlook, and one hell of a final product design.

My Overall Thoughts

Food is something we all need to survive, whiskey is a luxury in the grand scheme of everything. The vision and final execution of this product is something that all brands should aim for.

The incredible thing is that old Irish whiskey is generally quite hard to find. Whether you are after Teeling, Bushmills, or Midleton, there isn’t much of it around.

Yes, this is expensive, but for five entire bottles of whiskey with this kind of story attached to it, it isn’t that much when compared to everything else available on the market. To see five bottles of twenty-three-year-old single malt with multiple cask finishes across the world, worked together in conjunction with a two-star Michelin chef’s ideas of base flavors – every single brand in the world should be paying attention to what has happened here, and how to present a luxury, one-off, unique, bespoke, whatever adjective you can throw at it style of product.

I think this is one of the most unique, special Irish whiskey experiences that you can get yourself involved with. I’m in a special position as I’ve been able to try the stout, cognac, and mezcal that have helped influence these final whiskies, and they are quite frankly delicious! I’d buy them by the case if I could.

But even with this collection’s rather big price tag, it is an experience that even brands like Macallan haven’t even touched on when it comes to varied cask influences and such a huge variety of worldly influences, let alone just whisky and gastronomy.

Don’t buy a Macallan M, buy these five bottles of whisky instead. If I could, I would.

Irish

SEARBH (Bitter)

Sold as part of SENSES Collection - $5,500
9

Tasting Notes:

About:
"A cask was put into a car boot and driven by Rupert to Mayo where it was re-charred, filled with a bespoke imperial stout brewed by Dot Brew. The stout was bottled, Damien used some of it to make stout bread and then filled the stout cask with single malt. This gave us the dark chocolate and coffee notes we wanted."
Appearance:
Mead
Nose:
Barley grist, dark tempered chocolate, heavily roasted espresso, Manuka honey, wet bark, and barley extract.
Palate:
This reminds me so much older bottling of Glenmorangie. Loads of barley sugar, creamy chocolate, red berries, and an element of red vermouth. It states bitter, but it’s a very pleasant bitterness, with the real bitter intensity coming in on the finish - with quite a lot of wood, more espresso, and shattered shards dark chocolate.
Finish:
Long and developing with pleasant dryness and a taste of chocolate and coffee that keeps rolling and moving around.
Comments:
Full comments on the collection at the top of this article.
Irish

GOIRT (Salt)

Sold as part of SENSES Collection - $5,500
9

Tasting Notes:

About:
"Egan’s used to import Cognac from the oldest Cognac house in the world, Godet (1588). Rupert got in touch with Jean Jacques-Godet and asked for the oldest ex-grand Champagne cask he had. A phone call he wasn’t expecting. This gives a natural element of salt and spirits aged by the sea."
Appearance:
Schnapps
Nose:
Maldon seat salt! That’s incredible! Backed up by an array thyme, rosemary, and some soft green apple notes all baked into the back of it. Think warm apple pie with sea salt flaked all over the crust.
Palate:
A very gentle approach on the palate, with some very soft, slow building spice that won’t trouble anyone who loves spirits. A slight raisin taste to deliver some sweetness, but as you roll it around your palate, the development of these coastal tones is quite incredible. I’d never put cognac and salt in the same sentence before trying this.
Finish:
Elderflower, salt and lemony pepper corns.. It’s long and delicious with little sharp fleas of saltiness popping through some sweeter earthy notes.
Comments:
Full comments on the collection at the top of this article.
Irish

MILIS (Sweet)

Sold as part of SENSES Collection - $5,500
9

Tasting Notes:

About:
"It took us a while to decided how to impart the idea of sweet, as there are many way to do it. Eventually we settled on Madeira. We tired numerous and found our preferred supplier. We just had to convince them to send a cask 2,500km to Dublin."
Appearance:
Light Sherry
Nose:
Caramelised white chocolate! Poached pears, toffee sauce, pecan nuts, maple syrup, and rich, sticky Madeira.
Palate:
So rich and sweet as it hits the palate. A real density to it, low and fizzing spice that is reminding me of hot honey. There’s a slo a very honey/mead quality to it. Honey Medovina that you can get in Prague, specifically.
Finish:
Macadamia nuts, hazelnuts, chocolate praline, ore honey and mead, with a little sharpness of gooseberry and cherry.
Comments:
Full comments on the collection at the top of this article.
Irish

UMAMI

Sold as part of SENSES Collection - $5,500
9

Tasting Notes:

About:
"It turns out that a 200 litre barrel doens’t fit into the back of a Fiat 500. We went to Tuscany and dealt with Count Francesco Marone Cinzano, he was a pleasure to deal with. They owed us nothing but delivered everything. This wine cask gives us notes of truffle, tagliatelle and Sangiovese."
Appearance:
Burnt orange with pink highlights
Nose:
There’s a lot of fruit up front to this. Very strawberry, sour cherry and raspberry. There is a very subtle not of truffle oil hidden underneath these big fruity tones. With a little more time in the glass, it’s become a very cardamom, olive oil, truffle salt, vanilla, and raspberry shrub.
Palate:
There’s the real umami flavour. It’s very light in texture, but blows up more with that cardamom, olive oil, strawberry chocolates, a little bit of black truffle, Parmesan cheese, and some old leathery notes, too.
Finish:
Herbaceous and gently drying. This reminds me so much of ancient Oloroso sherry cask single malts. More old leather, polished oak cabinets, salt, red sherry vinegar, a little balsamic vinegar note, and dark chocolate torte.
Comments:
Full comments on the collection at the top of this article.
Irish

GEAR (Sour)

Sold as part of SENSES Collection - $5,500
9

Tasting Notes:

About:
"A mescal cask arrived into Dublin and had a few litres left of the agave spirit, we’d never tasted anything like this. The distiller we sourced this from is somewhat mythical in the land of Oaxaca. This would provide us with citrus and mild smoky notes."
Appearance:
Chardonnay
Nose:
They wanted citrus and light smoke, and that’s precisely what they’ve got! Apple blossom, smoke reminiscent of lesser peated Islay whiskies such as Caol Ila and Bowmore. Touches of lemon balm and lime zest.
Palate:
I love Mezcal, and it’s providing so much uniqueness to this single malt. You get the savoury sweetness that barley provides, but the mezcal is pushing through dominant citrus notes, sea salt, gentle smokiness, white chocolate, coriander seeds, and wet sand.
Finish:
Surprisingly balanced between sour and sweet. The lemony notes are just wonderful and fresh, I’ve got a lemon balm plant in our kitchen and it just reminds me of that. That sharp and refreshing hit that a lemon tart can give you. The sourness is pushing through a soft smokiness, but with some very floral burnt notes of sage, bay leaves, and smoked chilli.
Comments:
Full comments on the collection at the top of this article.

Phil Dwyer

Phil Dwyer's passion for whisky is undeniable. With a decade of experience in whisky retail and nearly as long running Whisky Wednesday on YouTube, Phil is dedicated to sharing his knowledge and enthusiasm with fellow whisky lovers. His goal is to make whisky accessible and enjoyable, dispelling the jargon and complexity that can sometimes surround the spirit. In addition to his online presence, Phil manages The Whisky Shop Manchester, where he curates an impressive selection of some of the finest drams available.

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