Sharply spirited, as can be expected by the whiskys youth. Moving my head away from the glass, I now detect a wine-y presence; however, rather than coming across as unadulterated Madeira, Im getting raisins, prunes, and stewed compote-like notes. A bit of pie crust, along with brown sugar. The smoke is subtle but pleasing, evoking the scent of a distantly burning wood stove. At a mere 25 ppm, smoke and peat do not fully dominate the sherry. Time for yet another sniff. All right, now there comes a touch of leather, along with a savory note that reminds me of the venison jerky that an old girlfriend of mine used to make. (She also stored her antique gun collection under the bed; Im not joking! Beautiful girl, though, a blue-eyed blonde and lovely, but also a Type A Tom Boy.)
Youth is still in evidence; with time in the glass, some delightful flavors emerge . . . such as orchard stone fruits like apricots, peaches, and plumbs. There is also a notable dried concentration of sugars: prune, dark raisins, and sultana. Now comes a wave of oakiness, belying cinnamon, along with a nubbin of red licorice. The tannins are somewhat aggressive, but not in the sense of a venerable old dram; rather, they are impatient to announce their presence in a way that is not so well integrated, perhaps. Yes, the spirits youth seems to have brought out a somewhat feisty disposition. But this, in and of itself, is kind of charming due to the excellent malt character. Its also worth mentioning that the Madeira casks used in this offering taste as through they are of the highest quality. I am thinking that they must have been sourced from a very reputable seller, and then transported from Spain during the right time of year to avoid spoilage. Bien hecho! Smoke in my glass feels cold, without providing much of a distraction . . . that is, minus a slight menthol note, which some might call eucalyptus. This borders on the notorious ash tray tasting note, of which I have never been particularly fond. It also might be equated with kissing a smoker of menthol cigarettes immediately after she has burned one. Finish: Yes, its long . . . but this stamina doesnt feel as though it was earned. What do I mean by this rather provocative assertion? Well, long finish though it is, the length is mainly due to fiery youth. Impatience again rears its ugly head. But this kind of ugly is not all bad, alighting on ones tongue like a bird of fire . I know, I know. Quite a few whisky drinkers have grown to appreciate just this sort of interplay between young spirit and phenols, especially with some interesting sherry thrown into the mix. Yes, Im thinking of post-2011 Uigeadail, at least in theory, although the sherry influence in that dram is different. Still, Im a stickler for well integrated elements in a whisky, young or old, which unite harmoniously, rather than fighting each other. Time has a way of uniting the seemingly disparate, but there are always exceptions. Getting back to the glass at hand, the Madeira presence has grown more subtle now, with lingering orchard fruits, and a hint of sugared raspberry. Dry wood cracking in a hearth. Cinnamon bark. There is also a vague note of guaran (thats guar gum to you), as well as the invigorating scent of forest loam after a late autumn rain shower. Through it all, the spirited element of youth bullies what could have been at least a four-star dram, if only it had been allowed to mature for another three or four years. Final Thoughts & Score: Kilchomans founder, Anthony Wills, said of the Madeira Cask Matured release that it is [a] break from the norm for us, it represents a bit of an experiment with full maturation rather than simply finishing whisky in casks like Madeira. I agree with him, but the experiment is only partially successful. Another strategy might have been to finish a pre-aged spirit of, say, five years, in Spanish Maderia casks for three or four years. Hey, Im just sayin. If Islay had a warmer climate, then four years would have been plenty . . . but it doesnt. Yet. Knock on wood. Global warming and geo-engineering, be damned. As Ive already stated (in so many words) this dram might have sung Amazing Grace with more time to age in the casks. Even two additional years would have cultivated an air of sophistication by giving the angels their rightful share. Granted, 6100 bottles probably wouldnt have come out of older casks. Oh well, thems the breaks. Coulda woulda shoulda. And this reminds me . . . Ive been dying to try a glass of Kilchoman 2008 Vintage . Yeah, baby! Were talking seven years in Buffalo Trace barrels with a nicely toasted Port Ellen malt. Its calling my name, and I know just the place to go for a taste: Pinkys Bar Nowhere in Portland, Oregon, which features over 400 whiskies. Yes, the pavements will probably be a mess tonight, swaddled in glare ice, but Im heading out anyway. Kilchoman 2008, here I come. Buy A Bottle:
Yes, its long . . . but this stamina doesnt feel as though it was earned. What do I mean by this rather provocative assertion? Well, long finish though it is, the length is mainly due to fiery youth. Impatience again rears its ugly head. But this kind of ugly is not all bad, alighting on ones tongue like a bird of fire.
