Editor’s Note: This whisky was provided to us as a review sample by the party behind it. This in no way, per our editorial policies, influenced the final outcome of this review. It should also be noted that by clicking the buy link in this review our site receives a small referral payment which helps to support, but not influence, our editorial and other costs.
Scottish distilleries have had their ups and downs. Over the years, many distilleries have gone under due to economic pressures and changing demand. One such old timer, Wolfburn Distillery, took its name from the river where it drew its water at its founding in 1821. It would become the largest whisky distillery in Caithness before closing its doors in 1837. The site went to ruin over the course of the next century, leaving only scattered stone-work.
It wouldn’t be until 2013 that a consortium of investors rebuilt Wolfburn Distillery. As with other iconic distilleries, they set out to revive a classic name. In this particular case, however, there is only a tenuous connection to the original distillery.
Wolfburn Distillery mentions the older distillery as part of their history, but has few connections to the original. The current owners have no connection to the staff of the original Wolfburn Distillery. The current distillery was built near, but not on, the previous location. No stock from the previous Wolfburn distillery has made its way into these offerings. The only clear connection between the current Wolfburn and the original is that both are built on the same river in northern Scotland.
That single connection, though, is a powerful link. The pH and mineral profile of water has considerable impact on the eventual taste of a whiskey. In the case of Wolfburn, its namesake river is situated in the far north of Scotland. By just drawing the same water for fermentation, these new distillers will be capturing an essential element of what would have made the older Wolfburn what it was.
Tradition is important to scotch, both in its production and its marketing. Utilizing the name and history of an older distillery may be the trick that helps a new distillery find its place in a field dominated by historic names and high age statements. Regardless of whether you see this as a true revival of the elder Wolfburn, however, the awards and acclaim earned by the younger Wolfburn attract my attention in their own right.
Wolfburn used peat smoke to create their Morven expression, and aged the spirit in ex-bourbon and quarter casks. The peat smoke brings an additional historical element to the expression. The older Wolfburn would have used peat extensively, given the location and time period. I’ll see how its light use here plays into the expression.
Tasting Notes: Wolfburn Morven
Vital Stats: 46% ABV. Mash bill: 100% malted barley. 92 Proof. MSRP 53 USD.
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Appearance: Pale champagne.
Nose: The nose is faint, but I can pick up the distinctive whiff of peat smoke. It’s carried on an airy, slightly briny whiff, with hints of citrus and oak wood.
Palate: The peat taste is present, but there’s a very smooth feel to the whisky and only the barest hint of smoke. Without the strong smoke, I can pick out more of the floral and citrus flavors of the scotch. The combination is evocative of English breakfast tea. The peat is strongest in the finish, where the peat moss plays against a lingering taste of lemon candy.
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