Editor’s Note: This whiskey was provided to us as a review sample by the party behind it. This in no way, per our editorial policies, influenced the final outcome of this review. It should also be noted that by clicking the buy link in this review our site receives a small referral payment which helps to support, but not influence, our editorial and other costs.
While I think a lot of us like to focus on the distillers and blenders, some of the most monumental changes came from the business end. In 1986, while bourbon was ebbing in the United States, distributor Marci Palatella approached the distillers of Pappy van Winkle with two ideas: try exporting whiskey overseas and put Pappy’s face on the label. Now, Pappy is the iconic, and expensive, brand sitting on top of a burgeoning bourbon landscape.
While bourbon speaks for itself for many consumers, it’s benefited from deliberate marketing. The Kentucky Bourbon Trail is more than just a list of distilleries. It’s a curated tourist experience. It is a concerted effort to push not only Kentucky distillers, but the overall identity of Kentucky as the premiere bourbon region. It cultivates an overall image of rustic farming, traditional techniques, and Kentucky authenticity. Preservation distillery, co-founded by Marci Palatella, is a natural fit for the Kentucky Bourbon Trail.
Preservation sits in an old tobacco farm. It grows grain for distilling on site, has its own mills for grinding, and a combination of low capacity pot, column and, hybrid stills for distilling liquid on site. The only part of the farm that doesn’t contribute directly to the whiskey is the 10 acre patch used for raising cattle, who can feed off of the spent grains used in fermentation. It’s the perfect image of a small, sustainable, family-owned craft distiller rich with a charming, Kentucky style.
Nevertheless, Old Man Winter doesn’t completely fit the Kentucky, small-farm craft narrative. While this expression does include bourbon grown, mashed, and distilled on site, it’s blended with additional bourbons from Kentucky and Indiana. While it’s common practice for new distillers to rely on outside stock, it’s not quite in line with the bottle’s label showing a single rustic farmer. Still, if the distillery continues its current trajectory, we may see it using more of its own stock and fully embracing the farm-to-bottle style.
In the past, Palatella’s branding helped create one of bourbon’s most memorable fixtures. While it’s too early to say if Preservation will be creating the next Pappy, Palatella’s embrace of the Kentucky Bourbon Trail’s style is a strong first step.
Tasting Notes: Preservation Distillery Old Man Winter
Vital Stats: 54.9% ABV. Mash bill: Undisclosed. 109.8 Proof. MSRP 158 USD
Appearance: Burnt Umber
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Nose: The whiskey has a richly gourmand nose. It is sugary sweet, but with a rich depth reminiscent of vanilla extract or molten caramel. The sweetness doesn’t overpower, though, and leaves room for undertones of cream and cinnamon.
Palate: There’s an immediately apparent burst of caramel sweetness. The thin texture and light burn let the flavor speak clearly. It lets me find some edges in the bourbon sweetness. There are hints of peach and baking spice that give some variety to the immediate sweetness. The finish is lingering, and evolves into tastes of sweet clove.
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