Editor’s Note: This whiskey was provided to us as a free sample to review by the party behind it. The Whiskey Wash, while appreciative of this, did keep full independent editorial control over this article.
Whoop & Holler is the latest addition to Diageo’s Orphan Barrel line, a series of very limited, highly sought after releases showcasing old and rare stock from their various cellars.
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It’s the first of the bunch made at a Tennessee distillery – George Dickel, to be precise. Produced from the standard Dickel mash bill of 84% corn, 8% rye, and 8% malted barley, this whiskey underwent the Lincoln County process before barreling, which sees the spirit drip slowly through a multi-foot bed of sugar maple charcoal.
At 28 years old, it’s also the oldest American whiskey I’ve ever heard of, a fact bound to generate strong feelings of all kinds from the whiskey cognoscenti. As the bourbon market has heated up, many distilleries have released super-aged versions of their core products, some of which have fallen a little flat. Too much time in oak can add an unpleasant, tannic astringency that masks that rich, corn-fed sweetness that makes bourbon so damn delicious to begin with.
I’ll be honest – 28 years seems like a long time to spend in a barrel, especially in the sweltering heat of the American South. When I first heard about that age statement, I cringed. The second-oldest Orphan Barrel whiskey, Old Blowhard, was released at 26 years old, and many found it over-oaked.
In a market where old whiskey seems to attract more attention than good whiskey, it’s easy to get cynical. Will Whoop & Holler be another bottle of expensive oak tincture, designed and marketed for eager status-conscious consumers who haven’t learned to trust their own palate over the hype machine? Let’s find out.
Tasting Notes: Orphan Barrel Whoop & Holler 28-Year-Old
Vital Stats: 28 years old, 84 proof, mash bill 84% corn, 8% rye, and 8% malted barley. Suggested retail price $175 for 750ml.
Appearance: The whiskey is remarkably light for its 28-year age statement, the color of dusky straw – it’s actually indistinguishable from the George Dickel No. 12. It leaves a thick garland of slow-moving beads along the swirl line.
I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the packaging. The 100ml review sample (not available at retail) is housed in a wooden box wrapped in a white hardcover to look just like a book, complete with gold embossed cranes on the cover and a title printed on the spine. An enclosed leather luggage tag, also sporting the crane motif, accompanies the sample.
Once you’ve finished the contents, it looks like it might make a great stash box for knick-knacks, cigars, or whatever else is legal in your neck of the woods.
Nose: Upon first nosing, there’s that signature Dickel note of chalky vitamins; it blows off with a little air, so persevere. Underneath it, I’m surprised by how little oak there is to be found. Notes of marzipan, beeswax, pu-erh tea, light molasses, sweet corn, and a savory, almost beefy character speak to the spirit’s corn-heavy mash bill, and while oak spice isn’t absent, it also isn’t overwhelming. Water brings out a little more sweetness – cherry, plum, and buttered johnnycake
Palate: The sweetness in the nose is notably absent in the palate. After a flash of cooked corn, pineapple rind, and fresh chili, things take a flat turn, like eating a candy still wrapped in the paper it came in. Firm astringency leaves the tongue parched. Almond and clove make an appearance in a thin, dry, rather short finish. At the end, I’m left with only mild, lingering heat rather than any other sensation. With water, the whole thing vanishes – only a lingering burn tells me I’m drinking whiskey at all.
Based on the light color and relatively light oak character for its age, I wonder if this was aged in used casks?
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Final Thoughts:
For a whiskey with a loud name, Whoop & Holler sure speaks softly. While it’s got a nice nose, things fall apart in the palate, despite the presence of a few interesting elements. Tasted next to the plain old Dickel No. 12, Whoop & Holler comes off a little ghostly – a haunting aroma, a flash of tropical flavor, and then disappears almost without a trace.
If you’re hunting for a special Dickel expression, you’d be better served by the 17-year-old that came out earlier this year.
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