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Bourbon Review: Old Forester Birthday Bourbon (2017)

We review the 2017 release of Old Forester Birthday Bourbon, a 12-year-old bourbon commemorating the birthday of one of the original founders of Brown-Forman.

OVERALL RATING

8
$79.99
  • Margarett Waterbury is a whiskey enthusiast and industry expert.
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Tasting Notes

About:

12 years old, 96 proof (for most, including my sample). Suggested retail price of $79.99.
Appearance:
Medium copper
Nose:
A big, rich, dense, fruitcakey nose with lots of classic bourbon character: cinnamon, clove, prunes, dried cherries, caramel, and vanilla extract. Clean and integrated, there’s a delightful lack of that solvent/paint note that sometimes crops up in higher-proof bourbons. After resting for 15 minutes, a pronounced bubblegum aroma emerges.
Palate:
During my initial sip, my first thought was “sweet!” followed quickly by, “oh no, wait…” The cascade of flavors in the entry are, indeed, typically associated with sweet things—preserved cherries, marzipan, rose pastilles, Luden’s cherry cough drops—but the whiskey isn’t actually sweet at all. Instead, it’s fruity but dry, in that brain-teasing way of dry Riesling or New Zealand sauvignon blanc. A deep spice character emerges in the mid-palate, serving up dark chocolate, dried chili, curry, and mint. The finish is, likewise, quite dry, with notes of cocoa dusted dried cherries and beeswax. A bit of water opens up the nose but kills the palate, making it feel flat and disjointed—I’d drink this one neat.
Finish:
Comments:
This is an engaging and unusual bourbon. The nose doesn’t quite match up to the palate for me, but I appreciate the density and quirkiness of the flavor. It’s not a bottle I’d reach for on the regular (these days I’m looking for a little more lushness and generosity in a bourbon) but for a person whose tastes tend towards the more structured and spicy, this will be a very satisfying purchase.

Editor’s Note: This whiskey was either bought as a sample by The Whiskey Wash or provided to us as a review sample by the party behind it. Per our editorial policies, this in no way influenced the outcome of this review.

Margarett Waterbury

Margarett Waterbury is the author of "Scotch: A Complete Introduction to Scotland's Whiskies" and a full-time freelance writer and editor specializing in the beverage industry. Her work has graced the pages of numerous publications, including Whisky Advocate, Food and Wine, Spirited Magazine, Artisan Spirit, Edible Seattle, Sip Northwest, Civil Eats, Travel Oregon, and many others. She also boasts editorial experience as the former managing editor of Edible Portland and as a co-founder and former managing editor of The Whiskey Wash. In recognition of her talent, Margarett received the Alan Lodge Young Drinks Writer of the Year award in 2017 and was awarded fellowships for the Symposium for Professional Wine Writers in 2017 and 2019.

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