The third release in Glen Scotia’s Icons of Campbeltown series, The Wulver, might be one of the most surprising whiskies I have tasted this year. At first glance it looks like a classic Glen Scotia limited edition, but it brings a character and texture that far exceed expectations for a 12 year old retailing at around £80. This bottle has personality. It has story. Most importantly, it has flavour.
This is an unpeated single malt matured in bourbon casks and finished for nine months in tawny port wood. At 51.7 percent ABV it is bottled at batch strength with no chill filtration and natural colour, showing in the glass as a rich copper orange. The packaging is bold, with deep purple tones and a lone wolf illustration that sets the mood before the cork is even pulled. But none of that would matter if the whisky did not deliver in the glass. It does.
The nose hits first with what I can only describe as Christmas in Campbeltown. Waves of roasted nuts and dark chocolate roll out first, backed by marinated forest fruits and a hint of salinity that is unmistakably Glen Scotia. Pistachios, walnuts and hazelnuts drift through milk chocolate and chestnut aromas. There is even a nostalgic note that reminds me of hot Vimto from childhood football matches, with those concentrated raspberry and blackberry aromas simmered down into something warming and familiar. It is rich and inviting without ever feeling heavy.
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READ THE STORYOn the palate it becomes something else entirely. The texture is remarkable, oily and mouthcoating in a way that clings to every surface. The first sip is a burst of salty spice with a little more intensity than its ABV suggests. The fruit retreats slightly in the mid palate, replaced by bourbon cask dryness and touches of caramel and vanilla from the American oak. Chewing the whisky brings out cupboard spices, hints of cumin and turmeric, all wrapped around a savoury edge that momentarily convinced me this whisky had some peat influence. It does not, but the smoked pistachio impression lingers and gives it an unexpected dimension.
The finish is long, coastal and drying, bringing back the dark chocolate and berry notes from the nose. It is a complete journey from start to finish and leaves you wanting another sip. At £80 it sits near Macallan 12 year old territory, but on flavour and character alone it outperforms far pricier bottles. Glen Scotia might occasionally divide opinion with its core range, but this release proves the distillery knows how to build a compelling limited edition. For me this is a solid eight out of ten. If you see it, try it.
What other Glen Scotia releases have impressed you recently?
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For a more detailed breakdown and to see the whisky for yourself, you can watch my full video on the subject below.
