Tasting the Oldest Port Ellen Whisky Ever Bottled

The oldest Port Ellen ever bottled sold for £375,000, but how does it actually taste? And does a whisky this rare deserve to be drunk or admired behind glass?
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Tasting the Oldest Port Ellen Whisky Ever Bottled
Credit: Diageo

Every so often a bottle lands in front of you that stops you in your tracks, and the Port Ellen Prism is exactly that. I was fortunate enough to be sent a sample to review for Forbes, and it seemed a genuine shame not to share the experience here too. After all, how often do you get to review the oldest official Port Ellen ever bottled?

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Distilled in 1978, this 46 year old was released as part of the Distillers One of One auction, housed in a 1.5-litre sculptured glass decanter and eventually selling for a staggering £375,000. But strip away the numbers, the glassware and the theatre, and what really matters is what sits in the copita.

The first thing I said, both here and in the Forbes piece, is that this is not a wallflower whisky. Many very old Islay drams lose their phenolic presence entirely, drifting into something floral and gentle. This does the opposite. It arrives loaded with fresh bonfire smoke, a touch of the vegetal, and that sandfire salt coast, dill and rosemary character you hope for from Islay.

Yet the note that dominates is orange. This might be the most orangey whisky I have ever come across, like standing inside an orange itself, with citrus oils in the air and a peat bonfire crackling somewhere outside. That may well be my quote of the year.

On the palate it is spicy, alive and almost fizzy. The oak you cannot quite smell suddenly makes itself known, joined by bright lemon balm, dry ashy smoke that transports me to a smoke machine at a school disco, and a long finish drenched in soft peat-infused wood. A second sip flipped things entirely, exploding into lime zest and red chilli heat, then Jaffa cake, then that sweet earthy tobacco pouch memory of my dad’s Golden Virginia. It never tastes the same twice, which is exactly why old whisky is so treasured.

For all the extravagance surrounding it, the liquid earns its keep. I scored it 91 out of 100 for Forbes, and I am sticking with that here. Its real achievement is proving, ironically for something this expensive, that Port Ellen is not simply an investment product to be tucked in a cupboard and flipped a decade later. It is genuinely good spirit, layered and full of resonance, leaving a presence that lingers long after the glass is empty.

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So the question I will leave you with is this: does a whisky like this deserve to be drunk and enjoyed, or has it become something we only ever admire from behind glass? I would love to hear your thoughts.

To see my full tasting of the oldest Port Ellen ever bottled, check out my YouTube video.

Phil Dwyer

Phil Dwyer is a freelance whisky writer and consultant. With a decade of experience in whisky retail and nearly as long running Whisky Wednesday on YouTube, Phil is dedicated to sharing his knowledge and enthusiasm with fellow whisky lovers. His goal is to make whisky accessible and enjoyable, dispelling the jargon and complexity that can sometimes surround the spirit. In addition to his online presence, Phil managed The Whisky Shop Manchester, where he curated an impressive selection of some of the finest drams available.

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