Some whiskies make their case with a long age statement. Laphroaig Càirdeas French Oak makes its case in the glass. At 52.6% ABV, this is a powerful whisky on paper, yet what struck me most was how comfortably it drinks. I’ve enjoyed plenty of Càirdeas releases, but this one has a real claim to being my favourite. Its combination of smoke, dark chocolate and remarkably vivid coffee notes is hard to forget.
The French oak gives the nose its character without burying the familiar Laphroaig smoke. I get brown sugar and vanilla first, followed by dark chocolate and espresso. There is a suggestion of cherry, too, though coffee is the note that keeps drawing me back. I believe the whisky spent time in lightly charred or toasted virgin French oak rather than a wine cask, but I can’t confirm that from the bottle. Whatever the precise cask treatment, it brings a rich, dessert-like character to the whisky.
On the palate, this is a coffee bomb. Dark chocolate deepens the espresso flavour, while just enough sweetness keeps both from becoming bitter or austere. The smoke remains part of the picture, but it never fights for attention. What really surprises me is the lack of heat. A non-age-stated whisky bottled at 52.6% might reasonably be expected to show more alcohol, yet I find this exceptionally easy to sip. If you love coffee flavours in whisky, this is one I would make an effort to try.
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READ THE STORYThere are a couple of qualifications worth making. Unlike the Laphroaig 15 Year Old I recently reviewed, this one does not state on its packaging whether it is unchill filtered or free of added colour. Its appearance and strength make me suspect both, but that is only a guess. The texture is not quite as full or viscous as I would like, either. That is my one small criticism of an otherwise excellent dram. At roughly $160 to $200, depending on where you find it, it is also a purchase to consider rather than make on impulse.
I give Laphroaig Càirdeas French Oak 89 points, and I could be persuaded to go to 90. For me, its balance of espresso, dark chocolate, sweetness, and smoke puts it among the best Càirdeas releases I’ve tasted. Have you tried it, and does the coffee come through as strongly for you?
For a closer look at the whisky and my full tasting, watch my YouTube video.
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