Scotch

Tasting Panel Part II: The Sovereign Single Grain

Our tasting panel tackles three very unusual 50+ year bottlings, all single grain Scotch whiskies released under the Sovereign series by Hunter Laing

OVERALL RATING

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The Soveriegn Single Grain

Tasting Notes

About:

Appearance:
Nose:
, but the texture threw me completely: tannic and ashy.” “Instant maple-flavored oatmeal.” “Lush and decadent: spicy nose, toffee and lemon poppyseed cake in the and slightly medicinal; enjoyable but assertive. I want a little more depth.” “Saline and vegetal, with sweet fruit, vanilla, and peppercorn on the , trail mix in the
Palate:
.” “Almond croissant, old world marzipan.” The Verdict: A crowd-pleaser. The lightest of the single grains we sampled, this one hit a lot of the right notes – nutty sherry, rich malt, and well-integrated oak. Surprisingly spritely on the palate for its advanced age. The Sovereign 1964 Invergordon Distillery 50 Year Old Single Grain Scotch Whisky (K&L Exclusive) Vital stats: 42.5% ABV, 50 years old, distilled November 1964, bottled November 2014. Bottle number 110 of 252. Tasting notes: “Funky, footy, savory. Worn-out wood with moderate sweetness and an ashy finish.” “Medicinal on the nose, but the texture threw me completely: tannic and ashy.” “Instant maple-flavored oatmeal.” “Lush and decadent: spicy nose, toffee and lemon poppyseed cake in the palate, mint and pepper in the finish.” “Soft on the palate, but full of flavor. Excellent balance – pleasantly sweet, but carries some heat.” “Da best!” Verdict: A big split on this one. Half of us didn’t enjoy this at all, finding it tannic, ashy, and too funky to really enjoy. But the other half felt differently, describing it decadent and even soft, with all those big toffee-maple-confectionery notes we love in after-dinner whiskies. The only bottle we sampled that spurred a real schism. The Sovereign 1964 Dumbarton Distillery 50 Year Single Grain Scotch Whisky Vital Stats: 49.1% ABV, 50 years old, distilled December 1964, bottled May 2015. Bottle number 68 of 162. Tasting notes: “Brown sugar, dark fruit, caramelized apples, and a faint savory/soy sauce note.” “Pleasant but disconnected, more enjoyable with subsequent sips.” “Hot on the nose and slightly medicinal; enjoyable but assertive. I want a little more depth.” “Saline and vegetal, with sweet fruit, vanilla, and peppercorn on the palate. Most interesting, but not a whole package – no coherent thread holding it all together.” “Grippy and tannic – water helps. Tastes like a bushel basket used for picking stonefruit.” “Disjointed. Beeswax in nose, trail mix in the palate.” Verdict: This one provoked a lot of head-scratching. On the one hand, there was substantial complexity – fruit, dark sugars, salt, even some earthy vegetal notes. On the other, that complexity never quite found its way into harmony – every one of us made a note that expressed some variant of “disjointed.” Ultimately, a tasty puzzler.
Finish:
Comments:

Editor’s Note: This whiskey was either bought as a sample by The Whiskey Wash or provided to us as a review sample by the party behind it. Per our editorial policies, this in no way influenced the outcome of this review.

Margarett Waterbury

Margarett Waterbury is the author of "Scotch: A Complete Introduction to Scotland's Whiskies" and a full-time freelance writer and editor specializing in the beverage industry. Her work has graced the pages of numerous publications, including Whisky Advocate, Food and Wine, Spirited Magazine, Artisan Spirit, Edible Seattle, Sip Northwest, Civil Eats, Travel Oregon, and many others. She also boasts editorial experience as the former managing editor of Edible Portland and as a co-founder and former managing editor of The Whiskey Wash. In recognition of her talent, Margarett received the Alan Lodge Young Drinks Writer of the Year award in 2017 and was awarded fellowships for the Symposium for Professional Wine Writers in 2017 and 2019.

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