Editor’s Note: This whiskey was provided to us as a review sample by the party behind it. This in no way, per our editorial policies, influenced the final outcome of this review.
The sherry cask is one of the most ubiquitous fixtures of modern whisk(e)y. They’re used so frequently, particularly in Scotch production, that “sherried whisky” has become its own sub-category. It is so widespread, in fact, that the demand for sherry casks has far outstripped the demand for sherry.
Over the years, demand for whisk(e)y has grown while demand for sherry has dropped. Rather than suffering for this shift in tastes, however, sherry producers are moving into dedicated sherry cask production. Producers are creating inexpensive sherries, using the liquid to season barrels, and then disposing of it. The fact that more sherry casks are made than sherry itself illustrates the importance of sherry finishing to whisk(e)y.
Sherry is not only important to Scotch, but it also has a history in American whiskey. In the wild days before whiskey was well-regulated, it was common for distributors to add “rectifiers” to their barrels to stretch out their stock. Sherry was one of the most popular additives, as it was available, non-toxic, and would actually enhance the flavor of whiskey. The use of rectifiers faded after prohibition, when greater regulation limited the purity of whiskey, and for a long time sherry had little to no presence in American whiskey.
High Bank Distillery’s Whiskey War line calls back to the early resistance against prohibition in its branding. To make this barrel selection, they aged hand-picked rye whiskey in Oloroso sherry casks for an additional 11 months. While they aren’t using sherry as a rectifier, as they would during the days before prohibition, the sherry cask finish still hearkens back to when the fortified wine was a mainstay in American whiskey. If this comes out well, it very well could be again.
Tasting Notes: Whiskey War Barrel Select Batch #12 (Oloroso Sherry)
Vital Stats: 57.8% ABV. Mash bill: Undisclosed but Rye Heavy. 115.6 Proof. MSRP 109.99 USD.
Appearance: Mahogany
Nose: The nose opens with rich earth and wood notes, like rainy soil in a forest. An overtone of pepper brings some texture to the scent. As I go deeper I can pick out underlying notes of sandalwood and toffee.
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Palate: Despite a very high proof, the mouthfeel is smoother and there’s a low burn. I can feel the sherry’s influence in a strong opening note of leather and cinnamon. As it settles, the flavor deepens into a darker, richer molasses taste. Before too long, though, the proof asserts itself and it takes on a numbing heat.
This continues into the finish, which has an almost medicinal numbing quality. It’s at this point I can most clearly taste the vinous quality of the sherry finish. As the numbness settles, I can feel lingering flavors of red fruit and nuts.
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