Editor’s Note: This whiskey was provided to us as a review sample by the party behind it. This in no way, per our editorial policies, influenced the final outcome of this review. It should also be noted that by clicking the buy link in this review our site receives a small referral payment which helps to support, but not influence, our editorial and other costs.
Ancient monoliths rise precipitously out of thick ferns and misty foliage, invoking the majesty of a time when giants stalked the earth. If you’ve ever been to the redwood forests that guard the North California coastline, you know exactly the scene I’m talking about. These giants inspire awe, rising up hundreds of feet on trunks large enough to fit a car through. So it is with excitement that I reviewed the three cask strength whiskeys from California’s Redwood Empire Distillery.
Redwood Empire Distilling got its start by selecting and sourcing whiskey distilled elsewhere to create whiskeys of distinct character as they grew their operation. By 2015, the company settled on three expressions for their core range: The Pipe Dream Bourbon, the Emerald Giant Rye, and the Lost Monarch, each named after a notable ancient redwood tree.
Each whiskey is a blend of whiskeys, including a portion of their own in-house distillate. The whiskey is aged on the North California coast line, a place founder Derek Benham and master distiller Jeff Duckhorn chose because of its consistent climate and humidity. This allows for a slow and even extraction in the aging process, as opposed to the highly variable temperatures seen in the aging of Kentucky or Tennessee whiskey.
In October of 2022, Redwood Empire released its first cask strength version of core range. “We are extremely proud of the craft and complexity that our Cask Strength showcases,” said Master Distiller Jeff Duckhorn at the time. “Experiencing Redwood Empire straight from the barrel is the preferred way I enjoy our whiskeys!” These expressions were wildly successful, each winning awards from several spirit conventions and garnering high ratings from review panels.
What sets apart cask strength whiskeys from others you ask? Purists argue that cask strength whiskey is the ideal form as it gives you the greatest access to the original product, straight from the cask, undiluted by added water, and is almost always non-chill filtered, meaning nothing has been removed from the whiskey to make it appear clearer.
In this state, the whiskey allows a drinker to have the greatest control over how much water to add, if any (there is a compelling case for why some should be added), instead of being decided by the distiller. A good comparison is the use of manual transmission by race car drivers as they provide advantage of efficiency and control over automatics, even though automatics offer an easier driving experience to the average consumer.
For example, when drinking bourbon, I prefer a cask strength spirit with a single medium ice cube. The cooler temperature and slight dilution allows me to enjoy more of the caramel and toasted oak flavors.
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To the spirit being reviewed today, the 2023 release of the Redwood Empire Emerald Giant Cask Strength Rye is a blend of several ryes, ranging from 4 to 6 years old. The blend is 94% rye, 5% malted barley, and %1 wheat. The addition of a small amount of wheat in the spirit undoubtedly has some sort of significance, but I am at a loss to say exactly what.
Clocking in at 116.4 proof, it is definitely cask strength, but by no means unapproachable. In tasting the whiskey, I found it somewhat young, trending more toward the rye flavors from the mash bill and not those from the wood it was aged in. Unfortunately, the notable absence of wood robs the whiskey its full potential as the softness of the characteristic rye spices cannot carry the palate without a more substantial backbone.
Tasting Notes: Redwood Empire Emerald Giant Cask Strength Rye Whiskey 2023
Vital Stats: A blend of rye whiskeys aged from 4 to 6 years. 116.4 proof (58.2% ABV). $70/750ml.
Appearance: Yellow mixed with highlights of light brown.
Nose: Spicy anise is prominent with herbal flavors of sage and lavender building outward on the nose. A faint hint of bitter yet fruity lemon rind finds its way into the mix.
Palate: Buttery smooth honey starts off, which is unusual for a rye, followed by a dramatic shift to traditional rye flavors of hay and lavender over cut grass and bitter chocolate. The finish has a nice pear lilt to carry it off.
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