Editor’s Note: This article is republished in ordinance with guidelines put forth from Israel 21c, its copyright owner. Author credit goes to Jessica Halfin.
When Gal Granov started his blog, Whisky Israel, in 2009, the community of whisky aficionados in Israel was small, import taxes on the product were heavy, and no Israeli-made whiskies were being produced.
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It was a time when Granov, a Sabra from Petach Tikvah who had been writing about food, wine and spirits in Hebrew, made the choice to write his new whisky blog in English because there simply weren’t enough followers to keep the whole thing going in Hebrew.
Today, he writes, reviews and arranges whisky competitions and tasting events in Israel. He shares his knowledge with new members of the “club” and moderates a Facebook group of Israelis that amassed more than 2,300 members in three months and continues to grow daily.’
Only five years along, a bit of kismet, a lot of luck and an innovative spirit have put Israel at the beginning of a bonafide craft distilling revolution. This is good news for Granov and others, like Yoav Gelbfish, who shares tasting notes, industry interviews and whisky tour reviews on his own site (whiskygospel.com) and especially for the hard-working pioneers of the industry.
The current players are the Golan Heights Distillery in the ancient Jewish city of Katzrin; Pelter Distillery in Ein Zivan, also in the Golan Heights; and Israel’s current largest whisky distillery, Milk & Honey, in Tel Aviv.
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Within the next year and a half, Legends Distillery in the Elah Valley and Edrei Distillery in Katzrin are set to open.
Additionally, David Zibell, owner, founder, and master distiller at the Golan Heights Distillery, has partnered with Lazar Berman to create the Jerusalem Distilling Company, whose rums, gin, Tunisian date liquor — and yes, whisky — proudly carry the lion of Judah on their label, which is Jerusalem’s symbol in both ancient and modern times. The distillery opened this January.
A visit to the Scotland of IsraelPlayful products
Coming up in an industry that isn’t strangled by the rules choking historical whisky-making in countries such as Ireland and Scotland, Israeli whisky makers can be more playful with their products.
This is evident in Zibell’s limited-edition Brewer’s Whisky, “Spicy Hummus,” made from distilled Israeli chickpea malt ale from the Meadan Brewery, known for its gluten-free, Passover-friendly beers. The beer is distilled, then aged in charred oak casks that previously carried Golani Black whisky, another variety in the distillery’s flagship line.
Spicy Hummus is a futuristic whisky with notes of citrusy hops, black pepper and a slight fizz at the finish. “I thought it was great, because nothing is more Israeli than hummus. I took the beer, distilled it, and aged it for two years, and this is what we got,” Zibell says nonchalantly, summing up a process that is described by some as an art.
Even more Israeli than hummus is the inventive and collaborative spirit that goes into taking things that one step farther and creating new products.
But Israeli as Zibell has become, you can also find a hint of his home country in the distillery’s maple whisky, which is surprisingly restrained, with just a touch of maple flavor that develops only seconds after the whisky has washed over the palate. The drink uses the kosher-certified maple syrup imported by Avraham McGowan, another Canadian immigrant.
More traditional varieties, like the distillery’s single-cask edition whisky, sport beautiful labels with handwritten annotations detailing from which number cask it was drawn, down to the type of wine previously aged in the used barrels.
More good things are sure to come. In Zibell’s words, “It’s only been three years, so we’re just starting to see the good stuff come out.”
Israel’s new whisky culture
Bars such as the Whiskey Bar & Museum in the upscale Sarona Market complex in Tel Aviv, and distilleries such as Pioneer Spirits in Beit Shemesh, have started giving workshops on whisky making and drinking — the latter concentrating on how to properly taste whisky and pair foods with the drink.
To accompany its whisky cocktails and 15 whisky-based tasting menu “journeys,” the Whiskey Bar & Museum has a menu dedicated to foods that pair well with certain whiskies, featuring dishes such as beef fillet carpaccio with whiskey aioli, roasted pistachio, cherry tomatoes and balsamic vinegar; and a chocolate mousse served with cocoa streusel, mango jelly, golden brownies and smoked whiskey dropper.
As Israel’s party culture shifts toward top-shelf spirits and high-end cocktails, bars that used to carry one or two bottles of whisky are now carrying one hundred times that and more. According to Granov, this is in part due to the recent easing of the whisky import tax in Israel.
Now, with lower prices on higher-quality alcohol creating accessibility, more Israelis are being turned on to the world of whisky. Bars such as Sasson in Haifa and Norma JeanWhisky tourism
Considering trends in craft distilling, biblical- and culinary-inspired Israeli tourism, the demand for local, small-batch producing, and visitors seeking interactive experiences, there is a good forecast for growth in this industry.
The Golan Heights Distillery is already becoming a gastronomic tourist destination among other facilities in the Katzrin area, such as the Golan Brewery and Olea Essence visitor’s center. The distillery’s upcoming new facility suitable for large groups will collaborate with local bread- and cheese-makers to enhance the whisky-tasting experience.
Legends and Edrei hope to capitalize on the tourist market as well. The flagship bourbon of Legends Distillery, “Slingshot,” will serve as a jumping-off point in the future visitors’ center to explain the biblical tale of David and Goliath, which took place in the Elah Valley. Similarly, Edrei’s name represents a biblical tale of triumph that took place long ago in the Golan Heights, which will be explained to visitors. Another biblical tie-in is that wheat and barley are among the seven species of fruit and grain native to the Holy Land.
As far as target customers, Luterman of Edrei Distillery offers, “I would consider people like myself to be the primary audience – whisky-loving Zionists, both those living here as well as those not yet living here. Additionally, I would consider all whisky aficionados to be included as well — especially those interested in experiencing a craft whisky which actually exhibits true terroir and truly unique character, much like in winemaking.”
Products of Israeli distilleries would make a perfect addition for international events such as the Whisky Jewbilee, a travelling kosher whisky expo taking place in Seattle on March 2 and in New York City on June 15. They did not make the list for this year.
“The whiskies are very young, yet after tasting them all, I think they show great promise,” says Granov. “I am confident that we’re going to see excellent whiskies emerge three to five years from now. With friends and members of the Facebook group, we’ve bought a cask from Milk & Honey distillery in Tel Aviv, and we’re going to bottle that in three to four years’ time. I’m deeply convinced we will have world-class whisky in the coming years.”
