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Book Review: Whiskey Japan

Whisky JapanEditor’s Note: A sample of this book was provided to us by those behind it. The Whiskey Wash, while appreciative of this, keeps full independent editorial control over this article.

For many American whiskey drinkers, Japanese whisky remains relatively uncharted territory. Beyond Suntory, Hakushu, Yamazaki, and Nikka, most enthusiasts’ knowledge of Japanese brands drops off precipitously—the opposite trajectory of many Japanese whiskies’ price points, which seem to know no ceiling.

If you’re mourning the current state of Japanese whisky prices, here’s an antidote, albeit one that might make the sickness worse in the long-term: pick up a copy of Whisky Japan, the new book by Dominic Roskrow. This beautifully photographed book from Kodanasha Press gives an inspiring glimpse into the world of Japanese whisky-making, from Kyushu to Hokkaido and everywhere between.

If you’re looking for technical insight into Japan’s famously complex whisky production practices, this isn’t the book for you. But if you’re hoping to lose yourself in fantasies of a grand tour if every distillery in Japan, daydream about visiting the world’s best Japanese whisky bars, or just enjoy some gorgeous images of some of Japan’s most scenic locations, you’ll be happy.

Whisky Japan starts with a history of whisky distilling in Japan, including a brief overview of the difficult socio-political milieu of the 20th century in Japan that leaves me amazed the Japanese whisky industry exists at all. Then, he dives into profiles of all major Japanese whisky producers, including the big guys (Suntory, Nikka) and some lesser-known startup brands as well as those aggressively sought-after collectible releases from shuttered distilleries like Karuizawa and Hanyu. Several pages are dedicated to basic tasting notes on Japanese releases that Westerners might be able to find, as well as an extensive survey of bars serving Japanese whisky around the world.

The most valuable sections of this book, however, are the interviews with master blenders, distillers, distillery operators, bartenders, writers, and other industry insiders sprinkled throughout. With most Japanese whisky makers famously cagey about sharing the details of their operations, Roskrow relies on personalities adjacent to the scene to share their insights and experience, and these sections don’t disappoint. Now, if only I could afford a bottle of Hakushu 18 to enjoy while I settled in for a nice, leisurely browse…

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