Located in the northern part of Speyside, the BenRiach Distillery is proud of its experimental, eclectic approach. It makes peated and unpeated spirit, occasionally dabbles in triple distillation, employs a vast range of cask types in its warehouses, and even fires up its still-operational floor maltings every once in a while. The result is a vast palette of finished whiskies, which are combined (or not) under the watchful nose of master blender Rachel Barrie, who also oversees product creation at sister distilleries GlenDronach and Glenglassaugh.
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READ THE STORYDue to that Brown Forman purchase, Americans are starting to see more from these three Speyside producers. Earlier this year, BenRiach announced the release of several limited-edition whiskies to the U.S. market, including some cask strength offerings, to show off the distillery’s remarkable range. We received three samples from that larger collection: BenRiach Classic Cask Strength Batch 2, BenRiach 10-Year Virgin Oak Single Cask #7367, and BenRiach 12-Year Peated Port Wood Finish Single Cask #2683. Tasted together, they manage to showcase the distillery’s versatility as well as reveal a certain unifying character centered around chocolate, mint, and gentle fruit. Let’s taste.
Tasting Notes: BenRiach Classic Cask Strength Batch 2
Appearance: Light amber
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Nose: A sweet, confectionery nose that’s surprisingly gentle for its proof. Warm nuts, toffee, cinnamon, pound cake, powdered sugar, wet green herbs, and honey.
Palate: Nice. Big peanut brittle, toffee, bread crust, honey, chocolate, black pepper, dried apricot, walnut skins, malt, and a touch of eucalyptus in the finish for a cooling, mentholated edge. There’s a touch of sulfur that evolves over time, giving this whisky a low-end gaminess that reads as pleasantly savory. For how strong it is, it’s very approachable. Water sharpens it up a little, adding some tart orange.
Final thoughts: This is a classic, elegant Scotch at a nice price point for its heft.
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Score: 4/5
Tasting Notes: BenRiach 10-Year Virgin Oak Single Cask #7367
Vital Stats: 10 years old, aged entirely in a virgin oak cask. 59.4% alcohol, suggested retail pricing of $95 for a 750ml bottle.
Appearance: Mid amber
Nose: Very chocolaty. I get milk chocolate, chocolate-covered cherry, cocoa quick bread, dark brown sugar, and lots of deep, slightly musty oak. Water elicits a nice wave of fruit – apple, nectarine, and that signature BenRiach mint.
Palate: Again, chocolate is the driving force here. Cocoa, walnuts, orange zest, molasses, and cloves, dosed with plenty of oak for a grippy finish that tastes every bit of its 118.8 proof. Water tunes it up, retaining the chocolate, bringing out fruit, and mellowing the tannin.
Final thoughts: Nice and rich, very after-dinner. A little tannic for me but I bet serious bourbon fans would love this.
Score: 4/5
Tasting Notes: BenRiach 12-Year Peated Port Wood Finish Single Cask #2683
Vital stats: 12 years old, 53.6% ABV, suggested retail pricing of $110 for a 750ml bottle. Peated whisky finished in port casks.
Appearance: The darkest of the three, still in the amber realm but veering towards mahogany.
Nose: This smells like an American barbecue – sweet and saucy ribs, mesquite smoke, melty grilled peaches, and a touch of truck exhaust. The port and peat influences are easy to identify. It’s unusual but compelling, very culinary.
Palate: Extremely smoky up front, with billows of wet smoke and candied segueing to a kind of sickly, mentholated fruitiness in the finish. Italian amaro, Robitussin, and menthol cigarettes.
Final thoughts: This is the whisky equivalent of a blind date gone horribly wrong: Two strong personalities in a small room together who aren’t getting along. Not for me – although maybe it’s for you?
Score: 2/5
