Editor’s Note: These whiskies were provided to us as free samples to review by the party behind it. The Whiskey Wash, while appreciative of this, did keep full independent editorial control over this article.
When they left Missouri in 1804, Meriwether Lewis and William Clark didn’t exactly pack light. In addition to 35 oars, 25 hatchets, 420 pounds of lead, 45 flannel shirts, 288 brass thimbles, and 50 dozen of something called “Dr. Rush’s patented ‘Rush’s Thunderclapper’ pills,” they also packed more than 90 gallons of whiskey. Each gallon cost about $1.28.
While the price of whiskey has gone up since then, its association with the Wild West hasn’t waned a bit. What can I say – there must be something about Oregon that drives people to drink. Now Trail’s End, a new bourbon from Hood River Distillers, hearkens back to the early days of the Oregon Trail with a spirit that follows Lewis and Clark’s woolen-stockinged footsteps.
Hood River Distillers is something of a novelty in today’s competitive liquor landscape. Founded in 1934, HRD holds Oregon’s Distilled Spirits Permit #1. While they’re independently owned and operated, they’re also not a “craft” brand, at least in any meaningful sense. More than 80 years old, HRD owns some big brands like Pendleton Whisky and HRD Vodka, Oregon’s top-selling spirit.
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And, until recently (more on that later), HRD didn’t distill anything, instead sourcing all product from outside suppliers. Instead, HRD is one of the nation’s last remaining regional distillers, churning out popular mid-shelf products and somehow remaining competitive against the multinationals.
In 2014, however, HRD made a move to enter the distilling world by acquiring the owners of the second-ever Oregon DSP: Portland’s Clear Creek. Famous for fruit brandy, Clear Creek also makes McCarthy’s, one of the first great American single malts. So far, HRD has mainly kept Clear Creek the way it’s always been: a hands-on distilling operation with serious craft bonafides.
Now, back to Trail’s End. The bottle contains a blend of sourced seven-year-old and eight-year-old straight Kentucky bourbon. HRD doesn’t disclose its source, although some speculate that it’s a high-rye bourbon, with Four Roses tossed out as one possibility. Once the bourbon arrives in Oregon, it’s finished with staves of Oregon Oak, a move inspired by Clear Creek’s immensely popular McCarthy’s Single Malt, which is aged in Oregon Oak casks.
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Keri Eliason, Marketing Brand Manager at HRD, describes the project as a collaboration with Clear Creek. “We’re so appreciative to have that partnership; their distilling experience has been really awesome. Clear Creek was the first distillery to start using Oregon Oak, and they have so much expertise with that material.”
Tasting Notes
Appearance: Dark, warm brunette with fast-moving legs
Nose: Very welcoming, with rich, nutty spice and strong tannins – almost like an oaked red wine. There’s a bit of grassiness and a suggestion of bananas foster.
Palate: Creamy crème brulee and caramelized plantain in the entry, but the midpalate dries out considerably. Notes of walnut, hazelnut, and nutmeg stand out as well as vigorous spice.
Finish: Dry and spicy without astringency or sourness. The finish is quite warming with a faint – but welcome – sweetness.
Conclusion
This is a wonderfully rich, spicy bourbon that manages to avoid astringency. It’s neat to see the new relationship between HRD and Clear Creek already yielding dividends, and I’m happy their newest offering is a (big) step up from plastic jug vodka. At $50 for a 750ml bottle – a price that’s looking more and more affordable in the bourbon world – it’s worth picking up if you get a chance.
FINAL SCORE: 90/100
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