As a beverage enthusiast who spends time in the worlds of whiskey and beer, I’d first heard of Colorado’s Leopold Bros. through my travels in the latter. Two world-class breweries, New Belgium and Crooked Stave, have chosen Leopold’s used whiskey barrels to condition their sour beers for added complexity and roundness. It’s no surprise then that the Leopold got their start in beer brewing, and took an interest in distilling after their brewpub closed in 2008. Their expertise at handling and brewing with various grains have given them a unique perspective on the creation of ‘American Small Batch Whiskey.’
As part of their traditional whiskey-making techniques, the brothers employ the use of large, unrefrigerated open fermentation tanks crafted from Oregon pine (in our neck of the woods, better known as Douglas Fir), and allow the native yeasts present in the air around the distillery to populate these tanks for a true wild fermentation.
Their experience in manipulating nuances of grain flavors also led Leopold to construct one of America’s few true malting floors, which allows for strict control over the grain’s taste profile through a carefully-monitored 55 degree sprouting and kiln-drying process which takes place in-house.
The grain-to-bottle approach (yes, they use Colorado grains) gives an unprecedented amount of control to the folks at Leopold in crafting their whiskey, and Leopold Bros. American Small Batch Whiskey certainly stands out from other microdistillery whiskeys that I’ve tried. The uniqueness is evident, but the overall taste profile will undoubtedly divide the whiskey drinkers of the world.
Tasting Notes: Leopold Bros. American Small Batch Whiskey
Vital Stats: 86 proof. Barrel No. 276. Sour mash from corn and rye. No age statement. First released in 2010. $32 for a 750ml.
Appearance: Pale, dull straw with notes of gold trying to push their way through the mediocre appearance. She’s certainly not a looker. Legs are present, they’re not as rich and thick as most in this whiskey range.
Nose: Graham cracker jumps out in the first breath, mild toffee and fresh banana follow in the second. Exploration of the aroma brings out a nuance that is reminiscent of cooked carrots. There is a touch of wet wool and everything is held together by an underlying note of dried vanilla bean.
Palate: Perhaps it’s the voodoo cast upon me by the extreme artisanship I’ve detailed above, but I swear I can taste the soft, yet true nature of both corn and rye here. There is a silky texture present which allows these flavors to linger and helps combat a pretty high heat level.
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Typical barrel-born notes are conspicuously absent, but I feel that a lack of aging time may be to blame. Still, for a non-sweet, non-barrel forward tipple, I’m surprised by the drinkability and pleasant nuttiness. Oak is obviously used only as a softener here.
Final Thoughts:
Traditional open fermentation, sour mash, lack of oak, heat, and a flabby appearance make this possibly the best moonshine I’ve ever tasted. It’s totally serviceable in the world of craft American Whiskey, but struggles to be memorable. For the price, however, those seeking a truer expression of delicately handled grain and a sharper, earthier bite will truly enjoy what the Leopold Bros. have created here.
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