In the heart of Speyside, a region renowned for its elegant and fruity whiskies, lurks a beast. Not a mythical creature of Scottish folklore, but a whisky of formidable character: Mortlach, affectionately nicknamed ‘The Beast of Dufftown’ by famed whisky writer Dave Broom.
Mortlach’s whisky differs vastly from others produced in the region. Its meaty, sulfuric character defies Speyside conventions and speaks to a complex yet rewarding whisky. So, how did Mortlach become ‘The Beast of Dufftown’, and why does the moniker linger today?
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The Most Complex Distillation In Scotland
The essence of ‘The Beast of Dufftown’ comes down to its complex and unique distillation regime, which ultimately affects the profile of the whisky. Mortlach undergoes a fractional distillation of 2.81 times. This isn’t just a little bit different; it’s the most complex distillation regime in Scotland.
The magic (or madness) happens with the stills. While some operate in a standard fashion, others take a detour. The spirit from these stills is split: most goes on to a second distillation, but a smaller portion—about 20%—enters the “Wee Witchie,” a diminutive still where the spirit is distilled not twice, but three times. Only the heart of this triple-distilled spirit is collected, adding layers of concentrated flavor.
This complex process, combined with a lack of extensive copper contact during distillation, results in a spirit that’s rich in sulfur and possesses a distinctive “meaty” character. The “dud runs” from the Wee Witchie, those less desirable parts of the distillation, are recycled back into the process, further amplifying this meaty quality.
Mortlach’s Flavor Profile
Mortlach uses a combination of ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks. However, the weight of the spirit makes it ideal for sherry cask maturation, further emboldening the rich, complex profile.
Mortlach whisky is often described as ‘heavy’, ‘weighty’, ‘meaty’, ‘gamey’, and ‘umami’. This differs from the typical Speyside profile, which is usually light, sweet, floral, and fruity. As such, the unapologetic intensity of Mortlach’s profile, nestled amongst a bevy of light and palatable whiskies, gave rise to the nickname ‘The Beast of Dufftown’. The moniker was coined by whisky writer, Dave Broom, in 2012, recognizing the whisky’s bold and robust nature.
A Storied History
Many casual scotch whisky fans or drinkers may not have even heard the name ‘Mortlach’ before. However, it is a central character in the history of Speyside distilling.
Pre-dating neighbors such as The Glenlivet (1824) and The Macallan (1824), Mortlach was founded in 1823, just as the Excise Act was passed – it was the first licensed distillery in Dufftown. Though it was not an established single malt brand for most of its history, Mortlach has served as a central component in scotch whisky blends. Most notably, Johnnie Walker. As such, ‘The Beast of Dufftown’ was integral to the growth and popularity of one of the world’s most beloved blended scotch whisky brands. A Beast in business as well as in flavor.
Mortlach Today
Mortlach remains under Diageo’s portfolio of single malt scotch whiskies, and has recently emerged as a single malt scotch brand in its own right. It was first released as a single malt in 1992 in Diageo’s Flora & Fauna collection. A 20 Year Old, released in 2018, cemented Mortlach’s position as a rising star in the world of single malt scotch.
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Today, Mortlach’s core range consists of a 12 Year Old, a 16 Year Old, and a 20 Year Old, all of which proudly display ‘The Beast of Dufftown’ nickname. Special releases, including the Rare and Exceptional whiskies, demonstrate Mortlach’s unstoppable rise, helped along the way by its fearsome reputation.
Want to own a historic piece of Mortlach? This Mortlach 1961 Scott’s Selection bottling, available on The Whiskey Wash Shop, was distilled years before the distillery made a name in the single malt space, and bottled in 1999. Buy it here for just $1,229.
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