It is not every day you get to taste a piece of history. I recently had the absolute privilege of trying the Benromach 50 Year Old, a whisky distilled back in 1972, at a special distillery event. Holding a dram that has spent half a century maturing in a cask is a humbling experience. While there are many expert notes on this release, from the distillery manager to famous drinks writers, I felt compelled to share my own honest take on this incredibly rare Speyside single malt.
On the nose, this whisky was full of surprises. For a 50-year-old spirit matured in sherry casks, I was met with an incredible, clean brightness. It was packed with lemon zest and citrus balm, a crispness that defied its age. Deeper within, layers of sweetness and intensity revealed themselves with wonderful milk chocolate and creamy nougat notes, reminiscent of a Milky Way bar. The signature Benromach smoke is there, but it is buried, a gentle wisp of sweet cigar smoke that you have to search for beneath the vibrant, complex aromas.
The palate delivered an entirely different dimension, starting with its texture. The mouthfeel is simply immense, an oily and weighty liquid that feels substantial. Initially, a wave of minty black pepper and citrus makes an impression, but then a beautiful mingling of sweet and savory notes takes over. That rum and raisin character absolutely smacks you in the face, balanced by a truffle-like, salty umami quality. As milk chocolate emerges, the citrus notes fight their way back, creating a dynamic and evolving tasting experience.
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Ultimately, while this is a really impressive whisky, it led me to an unexpected conclusion. The peat, at just 12 ppm pre-distillation, has become incredibly subtle after 50 years of aging, almost melting into that savory truffliness. For all its complexity and the honour of tasting it, I must admit I prefer the Benromach 40 Year Old. I find the 40-year-old to be more decadent and cohesive, whereas this 50-year-old expression carries a spicier, peppery woodiness that is perhaps a bit more assertive than I had hoped for.
Tasting the Benromach 50 is an experience I will not soon forget, and it is undoubtedly a masterclass in aging. It is a solid 8.5 out of 10 for me, a fascinating and complex dram. But it also serves as a reminder that older does not always mean better. Have you ever found a younger expression of a whisky to be superior to its older counterpart?
To see my full tasting of this rare Scotch whisky, watch my YouTube video.
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