Graeme’s path into the whisky world is a fascinating tale of chance and timing. Beginning his career in publishing and photography, he spent years traveling to distilleries – both operational and long-shuttered – throughout the late 1990s and early 2000s. During this period, he published multiple books at a time when only a handful of experts, such as Charles Maclean and Michael Jackson, were documenting whisky’s history in depth. His knowledge and perspective set him apart, making him a quiet yet influential figure in the scotch whisky world. After sampling his whiskies in Estes Park, which bore a striking resemblance to the coastal character of Talisker and Longrow, I knew I had to learn more about this man and his journey.
SW: How Did You Get Your Start In Whisky?
GW: Back in 1988, there was a range of whiskies released into the marketplace called the classic Malts of Scotland. The range included six whiskies from six different Scottish regions to highlight the different styles of scotch whisky. I went along to one of those tastings and ended up buying a couple of bottles.
The whole idea of tasting whiskies in a flight and trying them side by side was a relatively new concept. This was the first time I believed that you could try different whiskies from different distilleries as a vertical flight without going to a bar and just trying them or buying them all yourself. It was a great introduction to the spirit and that got me interested in whiskies and started my understanding and appreciation for scotch.
My next key experience was around the year 2000 when I attended a public whisky-tasting event called Whisky Live in London. Probably a first for this type of event as people were just not drinking or appreciating whiskies like they do today.
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Around that time, I had started publishing books and thought there was a market for a new whisky book. My idea was to produce a guidebook [inspired by Michael Jackson’s guides] that provided more information about the distilleries. It included an image of the distillery and the whole bottle rather than just the label. The book focused on a smaller range, but with more information about the distillery. It was named The Malt Whisky Guide and co-produced by David Stirk [2002]. All my books were image-led because I was into photography, and I was making a good portion of my living from photography, I used my images to bring the books alive.
Because I included photos in the whiskies book, I had to visit all the distilleries and photograph each one, resulting in a trip to every single distillery in Scotland. I would later revisit many of them for other books.
SW: Can You Tell Me About Your Time At Ardbeg?
GW: During the time that I started working on my first whisky book, the Ardbeg Distillery was mothballed, which means everything was still in there and ready to be fired back up. Then in 1997 Glenmorangie acquired the distillery, and I was lucky to be in the right place at the right time to record the silent, very neglected distillery come back to life after 25 years.
I seized on the opportunity to write the story of Ardbeg and approached the new owners about an image-forward book with well-researched text. They agreed to give me full cooperation to author the book, so I went above and beyond to do the best job possible, speaking to as many previous employees as I could, including several distillery managers. I had access to papers and documents that had been abandoned and strewn around in the old manager’s cottage. Nothing had been archived at that stage. So, it was a wonderful experience to record and build that story because there was virtually no history of Ardbeg.
I spent almost 10 years on that book. I was living in England at the time, so I would go up to Scotland for several weeks and spend a week or so on Islay at Ardbeg working on the book. Rummaging through documents and papers and getting to know all the new distillery workers. They had recruited people who had formerly worked there 25 years ago and I was able to get some really great old stories from those guys, highlighting how it was a totally different working environment. The first iteration of this book became Ardbeg: A Peaty Provenance in 2008, and the revised book Heavenly Peated came out in 2017.
SW: Tell Me About Hogback. How Did It Get Its Start & What Do You See For The Brand Going Forward?
GW: I always wanted to live in America and took the opportunity to apply to move to the USA back in 2017.
I planned to set up as an independent bottler of craft whiskies, particularly Colorado craft. However, that business model was declined by the US Immigration Service. I was immediately despondent and thought my dream of living in America was not going to happen. Then the idea of starting my own distillery (Hogback Distillery) just popped into my head.
The idea was quite simply to make “scotch” style whisky in America. So, focusing on producing a peated scotch style single malt whisky has remained the priority, and having a long-time fondness for peated whisky, the goal was to try and emulate Ardbeg. Having spent so much time there I had developed such a strong passion for everything Ardbeg.
Now, I see so many “craft” distilleries start up with millions of dollars that enable them to break into the market more easily, but I didn’t have that. I, on the other hand, started out with the small proceeds from selling my publishing business.
Focusing on distilling peaty whisky, is what I knew and understood really well. I thought if I stuck to that, it would be something that I could become the best at. I could be a big fish in a small pond by producing “scotch” style single malt whisky in America.
Going forward, I am excited to be a part of this newly recognized class and hope we can become recognized as one of the very best distilleries of this fast-growing style of whisky, always striving to do the very best we can.
SW: What Do You Feel Is Your Biggest Contribution To The Whisky Industry?
GW: Having never been asked that question before it gives me a great chance to reflect. I guess I have been an educator of whisky through my various publications. I’ve helped people develop their understanding and appreciation of the spirit. I have been a part of that journey for people. Not that that is something I set out to do, just doing something that I’ve enjoyed doing.
And now I’m making the stuff, so still helping people develop an appreciation and understanding for all things whisky. I’d like to think that a lot of people have traveled along their whisky adventure as a result of what I’ve done and said and written… and run of the still.
SW: What Or Who Has Been Your Biggest Influence?
GW: Dr. Bill Lumsden. He’s an amazing man, very smart and very humble. And he was key in bringing Ardbeg back to life. Then I would say Charlie Maclean just for his enthusiasm, for his knowledge, but enthusiasm. Once again, a very humble and charming man. And I’m going to throw somebody else’s name in here: Lenny Eckstein, the owner of Deerhammer Distillery in Colorado. When I came to Colorado to research the independent bottling business, I visited thirty distilleries, his was one of those. He gave me a lot of his time… and whiskey. I would almost say he was the inspiration for me to start my own distillery, believing that I could do it myself with enough passion to make up for any shortfall in funds.
Hogback Distillery
Hogback Distillery is run completely by Graeme and his partner Katherine, who oversees the tasting room most days. Much of Hogback’s top-end ‘Wallace Collection’ bottlings have seen 5 to 6 years in used barrels, with the ultimate goal of being able to release 10-year age statement bottlings in the coming years.
These soft peaty expressions are very much scotch-inspired single malts, while his Hogback Peat Smoked Single Malt and Rich Roast Single Malt are rich and intense yet very easy to drink.
