The intricate world of scotch whisky is a symphony of flavors, with each note carefully crafted through the whisky-making process. While raw materials, distillation, and maturation all contribute to the character of fine scotch, the lesser-celebrated stage of fermentation often holds the key to unlocking unusual and exceptional flavors. House of Hazelwood, a revered name in the realm of rare scotch whisky, has long embraced the artistry of fermentation, producing unconventional and remarkable flavor profiles that elevate its well-aged expressions.
This article explores the role of esters in shaping the distinctive flavors of House of Hazelwood whiskies. By examining the chemistry behind these compounds and their contribution to flavor development, we’ll uncover how fermentation transforms simple ingredients into complex, unforgettable scotch. The story of esters highlights the scientific and sensory artistry that defines House of Hazelwood’s exceptional whiskies.
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The Chemistry Of Flavor
To understand how these flavors form, we must first understand the chemistry of flavor. Distinctive notes which can appear within scotch whisky – such as pear drops, or even nail varnish are often titled “esters”. These are organic chemical compounds that usually appear during the fermentation stage of whisky-making. That is the fermentation of “wort” – the liquid produced from grain – to which yeast is added to produce alcohol (amongst other by-products) for eventual distillation.
The by-products produced by fermentation play a pivotal role in whisky making and can include everything from gases such as Carbon Dioxide to tannins and even other types of alcohol. Anything produced as part of this process which is not ethanol is grouped under the title “congeners”, including these highly desired esters.
Esters can be found outside of alcohol making too. They can be found in any situation where alcohol bonds with organic or fatty acids through condensation. This scientific process may conjure up images of laboratories, such as in the production of polish or perfume, but esters are very much a feature of the natural world too. It is the entity responsible for the sweet smell given off by orchard fruits, for example.
The Production of Esters in Whisky Making
Esters are usually produced during two key stages of whisky making: fermentation and maturation.
In fermentation, the distiller’s choice of yeast can be used to manipulate and produce different acids for the intended purpose of creating a specific flavor.
Esters can also emerge during cask maturation, although, unlike the precise measurements of fermentation, there is an element of intuition required if a new make spirit is intended for a lengthy maturation. The Angel’s Share promotes evaporation through the wood of the cask in which the spirit slumbers, concentrating these flavors, resulting in a rancio profile – a phenomenon which was magnified in House of Hazelwood’s recent release, The Last Trace, a 58 Year Old Blended Malt Scotch Whisky.
This release was particularly interesting for the overseeing custodians as the degree of evaporation had never been noted to such severity before. The release ultimately yielded just 65 bottles with remarkable depth featuring toasted coconut underpinned by leather, parchment paper, and a distinctly “antique” character.
Identifying Esters
For the uninitiated, the science of esters may seem intimidating, but armed with a little knowledge, we can use this chemistry to help unveil seemingly hidden stories within the scotch that we sample.
There are whiskies within the House of Hazelwood collection that guard their stories of origin close to their chest. For instance, The Lost Estate, a 43 Year Old Blended Grain Scotch Whisky will pique the interest of any amateur sleuth, for the grain distilleries featured within are two that have long since been confined to the scotch whisky history books, never to be seen again.
Its pronounced fruity tasting notes give away the tell-tale signs of esters – and the abundantly citric and orchard-based tasting notes allude to the specific compounds within. Orange citrus suggests the presence of certain compounds: perhaps octyl methanoate or octyl ethanoate. Similarly, pear-drop tones allude to a different set of esters: perhaps propyl ethanoate or propyl butanoate of orchard-like note.
The Marvel of Mint
One of House of Hazelwood’s most unusual and lauded releases is A Breath of Fresh Air, an unconventional 37 Year Old Blended Grain Scotch Whisky that yields an entirely unexpected character that could not be further from the typical dessert-like qualities of a grain whisky.
Indeed, this mentholic marvel is pronounced in its mint and herbaceous notes – an enticing invitation to any connoisseur as prevailing notes in this presentation are rarely found. The tasting notes are described as “of spearmint, pineapple, crushed mint and dock leaf”.
The presentation of mint-flavored esters is uncommon – and almost certainly likely to have formed at the fermentation stage of one or many of its grain components. Unlike its fruity peers, the carbon chains that make up these esters will be shorter – with propyl salicylate potentially forming these cooling tones.
Esters: A Singular Component
Esters no doubt hold the key to many flavors within scotch whisky making – but it is important to always consider other elements that could impact the final taste profile of a whisky – for instance, environmental factors such as airflow or temperature.
Ultimately, what a scotch whisky will taste like is in the hands of a custodian – and for those at House of Hazelwood who watch over these precious whiskies for decades at a time, the conviction in skill, spirit, and alchemy cannot be anything less than unwavering.
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A version of this article first appeared on the House of Hazelwood Keyholder’s Journal earlier last year.
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