Annabel Thomas On How Nc’nean Weaves Innovation Into The Entire Production Process

At Nc’nean we are spirit nuts: our approach is to consider innovation throughout the whole production process from start to finish.
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The distillery is renowned for its innovative and sustainable practices. Credit: Nc’nean

Whisky maturation or cask aging, is probably the most talked about phase of the whisky production process. It is this process that gives the whisky the bulk of its color, flavor, and aroma, and for most distilleries, this is where experimentation comes into play. However, at Nc’nean Distillery we believe that flavor can be produced at all stages of whisky-making.    

At Nc’nean we are spirit nuts: our approach is to consider innovation throughout the whole production process from start to finish, by putting time and effort into our mashing, fermentation, and distillation, before the spirit even goes into a cask. That is not to say we don’t care about aging, we very much do, but with our experimental philosophy comes a curiosity to consider how we can do things a little differently – especially when producing our new make spirit. Here are three key things we think about in that creative process.

Organic Barley

We are the only whisky distillery in Scotland to use 100% organic Scottish barley. We choose to use only organic barley from a sustainability standpoint, to protect biodiversity on the farms we source the barley from. 

In addition to organic barley’s gentler impact on the planet, we’ve discovered that it’s also great for the flavor and texture of our whisky. The healthier soils mean better quality grains, giving depth of flavor and a lovely buttery texture to our whisky. If you taste our whisky alongside some other organic ones, like Waterford, you’ll be able to see a similar quality. 

The buttery texture that the organic barley brings also means our whisky stands up really well to soda, one of the many reasons we choose to hero the whisky and soda as our signature serve. This simple drink, which we call a Whisky Six, is made with two parts Nc’nean to four parts soda water with lots of ice and garnished with mint. The addition of soda brings out the creaminess and creates something long, light, and refreshing.

Fermentation

Fermentation is key to flavor in whisky. Often side-lined as the stage where distillers are merely looking for maximum alcohol yield, we instead choose to focus on it. 

We use two yeasts to create our whisky (most distilleries just use one), and we have adopted unusually long fermentation times of 68-114 hours (c. 60 hours is standard in Scotland). Additionally, we dedicate 10% of our annual production to yeast experiments. All of these efforts aim to create additional complexity and depth of flavor in our whiskies. 

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Ultimately,  brewing is a vital part of the production of whisky; we produce beer which is then distilled. Yeast is considered critical to flavour production in beer and we’ve translated that approach into our production. By using these two yeasts and increasing the length of the fermentation process, we produce a delicious unique, and fruity new make spirit.

Our yeast experiments are about hunting for new flavors in whisky. By running small-scale wash fermentations to establish the flavors and alcohol created by various yeast strains, we then scale up our favorite washes, running each for a two-week period. 

Huntress 2023 Woodland Candy. Credit: Nc’nean

The rum yeast used in our Huntress 2022 release resulted in a whisky packed full of minerality and wonderful tropical aromas. The combination of four different yeast strains in Huntress Woodland Candy meant the bottling was named for its bold and creamy flavors of buttery toffee and forest fruits, reminiscent of the mossy woodlands that surround us on the west coast of Scotland.

We have many more experiments maturing in the warehouse. For example, in 2021 we separately trialed both Saison and Kviek, two very different farmhouse-style ale yeast strains. The former adds extra top notes of citrus and light spices, while the latter adds tropical fruit and an even higher level of the creamy texture compounds Nc’nean is known for. These have joined an ever-diversifying and expanding list of experimental fermentations at our distillery, including yeasts originally designed for different wine varieties, other spirit categories, and even completely new strains altogether. 

We can’t discuss the details of that last collaboration just yet, but early tasting sessions have been very promising. An incredibly rich and complex spirit that tastes a little like cola cubes! We can’t wait to share all of them with the world in the next few years.

Distillation

Much like fermentation, we distill slowly. This allows maximum contact between the spirit and the copper. And for most of our spirit, we take a very ‘high cut’ on the still, to emphasize the light, fruity notes in our distillate.

However, for six weeks each year, we run a different spirit recipe which is designed to mature for a much longer period. This is not only an unusual approach (most distilleries just produce one spirit recipe), but it also produces an unexpected bonus: the week the spirit recipe is switched back to our normal ‘high cut’ produces unusually high levels of these lovely fruity compounds that flood into the spirit. 

The still house at the distillery. Credit: Nc’nean

This year, we released this very special spirit in our Huntress series. Named after one of our team’s favorite desserts, and a perfect description for this whisky with its flavors of cherry Bakewell, apricot, and peppermint.  Huntress Orchard Cobbler has recently launched in the US and is available here for delivery in 44 states. 

Maturation

Having said that, we do still place significant value on the importance of cask maturation. We mature our whisky on-site in a mix of ex-bourbon, sherry, and STR ex-red wine casks, along with many other smaller and more unique cask experiments, including Rum, Tequila, Calvados, Cognac, Rivesalts, Madeira and Maury. 

Cask maturation is also one of the key ways in which we collaborate with other like-minded sustainable brands, earlier this year we released a single cask whisky in partnership with chef and author Gill Meller who champions sustainable, seasonal cooking. We also recently released a single cask whisky aged in an ex-Cognac cask from Fontagard Distillery in France who champion sustainable production.

To read more about innovation at Nc’nean with a particular focus on sustainability please check out Annabel’s article on “Why you should care about the sustainability of your whisky” here

Annabel Thomas

Annabel Thomas is the founder and CEO of Nc'nean Distillery, producer of world-renowned organic single malt Scotch whisky. Annabel's passion for whisky was ignited while living and working in London, prompting her to pursue a career in the industry. She is a strong advocate for environmentalism and sustainability within the whisky world.

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