Whisky enthusiasts know by now that Japan produces some of the world’s finest whisky. Above all else, the name that continues to come to mind first for many is Yamazaki. The distillery where Japanese whisky was born has been putting the country on the whisky map for over a century and has developed into a holy grail for whisky lovers. Demand and lack of availability drove prices high and the desire only grew stronger. One such desirable whisky is the Yamazaki 12 Year Old.
Yamazaki 12 Year Old is the distillery’s flagship whisky and has been a favorite of whisky lovers for decades. It was the single malt that made people take Japanese whisky seriously and so much of the category’s success came from standing on the shoulders of this giant. But why did this single malt become the industry darling, scoring floods of awards and critical acclaim? Let’s look deeper into the story of Yamazaki 12 Year Old.
What Is The Story Behind Yamazaki Whisky?
The founder of Yamazaki Distillery is Shinjiro Torii. He opened a store Torii Shoten, in February 1899 selling wines like Akadama Port Wine, launched in 1907. Realizing an opportunity to create Japanese whisky, he became the country’s first master blender in 1923 when he established his distillery in The Vale of Yamazaki in the Osaka Prefecture. He chose the location for its access to pure water and its favorable climate for whisky maturation
Just a year later the first spirit ran from the stills at Yamazaki. The man known as the godfather of Japanese whisky, Taketsuru Masataka, was brought on to bring the expertise he had learned from travels to Scotland. A decade later he left to found Nikka Distillery.
The first Japanese whisky Yamazaki launched was in 1929, Shirofuda, or ‘White Label’. In 1937 a more successful whisky, Kakubin (which means ‘Square Bottle’) followed and some bottles do occasionally go on sale on the auction market to this day. It’s also the whisky Bill Murray’s character advertises in the Sofia Coppola film Lost in Translation (2003).
Torii Shoten would eventually become the Kotobukiya Company, then Suntory. Suntory Global Spirits owns and distributes Yamazaki whisky today (as well as Hibiki, Toki, Hakushu, and Chita whisky) and is the number one producer of Japanese whisky globally. Yamazaki Distillery was the sole supplier of malt whisky for Suntory until the Hakushu Distillery opened in 1973, while grain distillery Chita opened in 1972.
It wasn’t until 1984 that a Japanese whisky was released under the Yamazaki name. Torii’s second son Keizo Saji released The Yamazaki 12 Year Old, designed to have a more delicate flavour profile than the Scotch single malts available at the time. Yamazaki 10 Year Old and Yamazaki 18 Year Old followed in the 1990s, cementing the reputation of both Japanese whisky and Yamazaki.
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How Is Yamazaki 12 Year Old Made?
Saji also oversaw a renovation at the distillery during the late 1980s. Yamazaki was fitted with wooden and stainless steel washbacks plus directly and indirectly heated stills that vary in shape in size to give it the ability to produce different styles and flavors of whisky. In 2006, third-generation master blender Shingo Torii switched production of Yamazaki’s whiskies to smaller pot stills, and in 2013 the distillery installed four more stills, which were followed by a further four.
Yamazaki continues to operate a flexible process to create malt whiskies of different profiles which is useful for blending. Its distillers can choose between wooden and stainless steel washbacks in the fermentation process and also experiment with varieties of yeast strains. They can also switch between 16 pot stills of varying profiles and have a huge array of casks for maturation. The water source remains highly prized and the water is tested daily.
Yamazaki 12 Year Old is made from 100% malted barley and is a single malt. It is aged in five different types of oak casks of various shapes and sizes, including American oak, Spanish oak, and Japanese Mizunara oak casks. The latter is a species of oak native to Japan that is highly prized in whisky production for its unique influence on whisky and the distinctive characteristics it brings, typically notes of sandalwood, spice, coconut, and incense. Mizunara casks are also known as being difficult to work because they tend to leak, and they’re also rare and expensive.
The location of the Yamazaki Distillery was chosen for its distinct maturation climate, which sees high humidity and significant temperature variations between seasons. This intensifies the reaction between the spirit and the wood. After aging, Yamakzaki’s master blenders will marry the whiskies from different barrels to make Yamazaki 12 Year Old.
Why Is Yamazaki 12 Year Old So Rare?
Yamazaki 12 Year Old is currently £139.95 on Master of Malt and is limited to one bottle per customer. This is significantly more expensive than most other 12-year-old whiskies on the market. But the market for Yamazaki 12 Year Old reflects that of Japanese whisky as a whole, which has become expensive and limited in supply due to a combination of historical and economic factors.
During the late 20th century, Japanese whisky’s popularity declined, leading many distilleries to close or reduce production. However, in the 21st century, a resurgence in demand, fueled by international awards and a growing global appreciation, outpaced the limited supply. This scarcity, coupled with the closure of distilleries like Karuizawa, has driven prices higher. While production is ramping up now, it will take time before prices stabilize. Yamazaki 12 Year Old is one of the most in-demand Japanese whiskies and it’s no more immune to these market forces than any other.
What Does Yamazaki 12 Year Old Taste Like?
Yamazaki 12 Year Old is regarded for its delicate, complex balance of sweet and fruity notes. Its primary flavors are a rich, sherried sweetness with honey, dried fruit, and aromatic spices like nutmeg and cinnamon. It also possesses a subtle smokiness and an oaky warmth that complements the overall tasting experience.
Despite being a well-rounded whisky with a lot of flavour, the delicate manner in which these notes evolve gives Yamazaki 12 Year Old an approachability that means new whisky drinkers can appreciate it. The word ‘smooth’ is perhaps overused too often in whisky, but there is a polished quality to the spirit that any whisky lover can value. Fans of more full-bodied whiskies with powerful flavors may find Yamazaki 12 Year Old underwhelming, particularly given the hype that follows the whisky. But you should just appreciate the spirit on its own merits.
Here is a full tasting note from Master of Malt.
“Appearance: Deep amber or mahogany.
“Nose: Good body with plenty of nut oils and zest, a pleasant floral character with a little tropical fruit and a rooty note.
“Palate: Smooth and soft with good sweetness and winter spice. A lovely citrus note develops with more tropical fruit notes and a little rum.
“Finish: Medium with fruit and zest.
“Comments: A wonderfully elegant and smooth single malt that’s certainly not lacking in flavor.
Yamazaki 12 Year Old: A Multi-Award-Winning Japanese Whisky
Yamazaki 12 Year Old is the recipient of numerous whisky awards. In 2003, it became the first Japanese whisky to win gold at the International Spirits Challenge. Below are some of the major awards it’s won:
Gold at the International Spirits Challenge – 2003, 2010, 2018, 2021, and 2022.
Double Gold at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition – 2009 and 2013.
Gold at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition – 2010.
Suntory Has Also Won The Following Awards As A Producer
Whisky Distiller of the Year at the Icons of Whisky Competition – 2010 and 2017
Distiller of the Year at the International Spirits Challenge – 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014.
Worldwide Whiskey Producer Of The Year Award at the International Spirits Challenge – 2017.
The Distilling Panel Magazine Distillery of the Year at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition – 2013
Why Is Yamazaki 12 Year Old A Must-Try Whisky?
Yamazaki 12 Year Old is one of those whiskies you have to try once. Yes, the price is inflated, but the quality is undeniable and few spirits possess the story and heritage this whisky boasts.