The moment Islay fans have been waiting for is finally upon us; Port Ellen reopened in March 2024. Now begins the long wait to sample the new Port Ellen whisky. The distillery marked the momentous reopening with a pair of whiskies named Gemini. These non-identical twin 44 year olds both honor the iconic distillery’s past and set the tone for what we can expect from future releases.
Classic Whisky Marks A New Era At Port Ellen
Port Ellen Gemini is two bottles of 1978 distilled whisky that have been matured for 44 years. The first, Port Ellen Gemini Original, was matured purely in European Oak Butts. The Second, Port Ellen Gemini Remnant, spent the final years of its 44 year maturation in a completely original finishing cask, known as the remnant cask.
This parallel maturation has created two whiskies that showcase elements all whisky enthusiasts can appreciate: At 44 years old these are by far the oldest Port Ellen whiskies, plus the opportunity to see how cask finishing can impact a whisky’s profile is bound to appeal to fans. However the use of an original Port Ellen remnant cask—against all odds saved for 40 years—gives a taste of the future we might expect to see in releases from the reborn distillery.
What Is The Remnant Cask?
Diageo explains that a remnant cask is “a feature of every distillery, […] used to measure excess spirit from a filling run.” This one is apparently an original remnant cask from Port Ellen before it closed, giving it the opportunity to impart something truly unique to this special release.
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If a cask could talk this remnant cask could tell us its memories of all the spirits that once passed through the Port Ellen stills. This has clearly been a project of passion for the distillery as they work behind the scenes to mark the reopening in a suitable fashion.
“The finish is nothing short of historical,” explains Master Blender Craid Wilson. “An extraordinary remnant cask that cradled three decades of Port Ellen spirit, now restored and revived, a worthy touch to this rare Scotch. It is a fitting tribute to the past and future as Port Ellen returns once again.”
Whisky expert Charles Maclean explained how the use of the remnant cask had “markedly increased the flavor profile of this uniquely finished expression.”
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Looking To The Future With Packaging
As with all high end releases the presentation is as important as the whisky, and no thought has been spared here. Even the samples have been carefully presented to give the experience of the full size bottles in miniature.
The design is clean and futuristic, with the white exterior of the presentation box echoing the iconic paint scheme of Islay’s coastal distilleries. That is then contrasted by an equally faceted but this time mirrored interior.
The result is a presentation that seems to promise the whiskies it contains will understand and reflect both the future and the past. This is echoed in the label designs too. The simple yet striking designs contain undeniable elements of Port Ellen’s most famous bottlings; the annual releases, the success of which arguably spurred the distillery’s final reopening.
Port Ellen The “Awakened Giant”
The crystal decanters for Port Ellen Gemini Original and Remenant are printed with the words, “A Giant Awakens” and, “A New Day Dawns” respectively. Perhaps a twin promise that they intend to honor the past while also looking at the future?
At just 500,000 liters of alcohol per year Diageo have kept the official capacity for Port Ellen small. It will be the smallest of Diageo’s portfolio, but the impression is that it will also become a center of innovation both for Port Ellen itself and Diageo as a whole.
Recently I was fortunate enough to have the opportunity to ask Julie Bramham, Diageo’s Managing Director Rare and Global Marketing Transformation Director, some questions about Diageo’s new distilleries.
“For Port Ellen, our focus was on both recreating the classic expressions and innovating with our experimental stills. Our ten-part spirit safe allows us to chart the Atlas of Smoke, blending tradition with modern techniques to push the boundaries of what Port Ellen can be,” Bramham explained to me over email.
The Ten Part Spirit Safe and Six Part Roller Mill installed at Port Ellen are something they are very proud of. They’re equally keen to explain how they will help them recreate and enhance the whisky making at Port Ellen over the coming years.
“The Ten Part Spirit Safe allows multiple cuts to be drawn from the heart of the run, accessing previously unexplored flavors and characters, propelling the whisky-making art to new heights of intricacy and complexity. Further distillery innovations include a Six-part Roller Mill, to give added precision, and an onsite laboratory that will support this exploration into the mysterious flavor of smoke. This all provides the ability and willingness to experiment with everything from yeast strains and barley varieties through to peating levels, fermentation times and beyond allowing us to push the boundaries in Scotch malt whisky production.”
Worth The Wait
Astute whisky fans won’t miss that a 1978 distillation date and 44 year old whisky means that these icons were bottled in 2022—2023 at a push. It’s not much of a surprise as the distillery’s original opening date was pushed back numerous times, first and not least by COVID lockdowns. After years of speculation the distillery finally reopened in March 2024.
Based on my exchange with Julie Bramham I can’t wait to see what they produce. Of course, the reality of the whisky industry is at least a three year wait to see what new Port Ellen whisky tastes like. It may well be longer.
The presentation, Port Ellen’s existing standing and the small capacity means I expect Port Ellen to sit at the premium end of Diageo’s portfolio. From there it will benefit most from the demand already established for its vintage releases. However the premium market normally necessitates older age statements, which means a longer wait. Although of course, premium NAS whiskies are becoming increasingly common, so who knows.
For now I hope and expect that they continue to release icons from their incredible back catalog of casks.
Just 274 sets of Port Ellen Gemini will be available in selected markets at a recommended retail price of £45,000 inclusive of UK VAT and Duty.
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