Inside The Ardnahoe Whisky Distillery With Andrew Laing

Ardnahoe is Islay's newest distillery. Founded by Hunter Laing & Co. it brings a fresh take on the iconic Islay whisky style, I spoke with Andrew Laing about their inaugural release, available to whisky enthusiasts worldwide.
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The inaugural 5-year-old release from the Ardnahoe distillery is the latest new whisky to come from the Islay region.

Few whisky regions hold the mystique and tradition of Islay, where every dram seems to carry the essence of the island’s wild, windswept beauty. There is something about Islay whisky that holds allure for both whisky drinkers and makers. Perhaps for both sides it is the same thing; the combination of unique features that make a distinctive and iconic drink. For one side it’s the chance to make it, for the other the chance to consume it. Despite being the second smallest region by area and just 25 miles long, Islay is home to ten operational distilleries (with more on the way).

This year Ardnahoe became the newest distillery to introduce its take on Islay whisky to the world. I was fortunate enough to make the pilgrimage to this iconic whisky region earlier in 2024 and met Andrew Laing and the team behind the fantastic new whisky.

The Newest Whisky From Islay

Hunter Laing & Co. founded Ardnahoe in 2018, making it the latest distillery to join the elite ranks of Islay distilleries that are releasing their distinctive whisky style to the world. Those keen scotch fans amongst you may remember Port Ellen opened earlier this year too, but we’ve a few years to wait before we get the chance to sample the reborn version of that whisky.

The global renown of Islay as a whisky making region stretches back to the prohibition era. Prior to prohibition the location had already made it a convenient location for exporting scotch abroad. Then the distinctive style leant to it being described as “medicinal,” which helped get the bottles into prohibition America. The classic Islay style has remained hugely popular through to now and the team behind Ardnahoe are keen to introduce their take on the classic to the world.

“Coming from our background as blenders and independent bottlers, we have over the decades acquired an understanding of what we feel makes the best Islay single malt whisky,” Andrew Laing, Ardnahoe Export Director explained to me over email. “It was our founder Stewart’s dream to produce his preferred style of spirit, which would mature well in both bourbon and sherry – particularly oloroso – casks.”

The Laing’s, who are the founders of the distillery, have family connections to Islay that stretch back to the 1700s, and so the location just felt right when they were looking for a location. “Islay’s whiskies and distilleries are rightly held in very high regard so we were eager to take our place amongst them.” 

The Only Distillery On Islay To Use Worm Tubs

There are no actual worms, or tubs full of worms, used in making scotch! Worm Tub is the name for a specific kind of condenser used in the whisky making process. It’s simply a long copper tube coiled round itself and immersed in a wooden tub full of water.

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Very few scotch distilleries still use them because as well as being large, they’re considered notoriously difficult to master, as well as being expensive to run and maintain. How the spirit is condensed back to liquid during distillation has an impact on the final whisky, and worm tubs impart notes the the Ardnahoe team were keen to achieve.

“We believe they bring added depth of flavor and complexity to the spirit and that this is evident in our inaugural release,” said Andrew Laing.

Worm tubs are large and difficult to master, as well as being expensive to run and maintain, but the Ardnahoe distillery use them for the distinctive flavors they create.

The extra depth is a result of worm tubs condensing the spirits slowly. The slower process gives more contact with the copper and imparts stronger, meatier flavors to the whisky. It also allows the whisky to retain sulfur compounds. Don’t worry though, sulfur has a bad reputation but the good sulfur compounds created by worm tubs can help create great whisky. That’s because during maturation they interact with the wood of the cask to create sweeter notes of butterscotch and toffee.

Ardnahoe’s Inaugural Release Is Available Now

The site for the Ardnahoe distillery was bought in 2016 with work beginning in 2017 and spirit finally running from the stills in late 2018. Patience has been necessary but the independent bottler experience appears to be at play in their inaugural release: a five year old age statement is pretty unusual for a distillery’s core release but the team were determined that rather than aiming for an arbitrary age, they wanted to create the best whisky they could.

“We always agreed that we would never rush the release of our first Ardnahoe whisky and that the whisky would tell us when it was ready,” Andrew explained when I asked about the choice of age for their first release. “In recent months it became apparent that the maturity of the whisky had developed to the point that the peaty and fruity characteristics of the distillate were in good balance with the influence from the bourbon and sherry casks in which it has been matured. We finally knew we could create an inaugural release to be proud of.”

In the bottle design you can see elements of the independent bottler roots as well. The distinctive shape is also still roughly classical, as is the commitment to extensive details on the label and the adherence to an age statement. I’ve noticed a shift away from age statements across a number of distilleries; Macallan is an obvious one, but also the likes of the award winning Glenglassaugh Sandend. So I’m curious to see what comes next from this new distillery on old shoulders.

I was lucky enough to receive a sample bottle of Ardnahoes new whisky and while I don’t do tasting notes, I can honestly say it was a great dram. Arguably the second release is even more important than the first for a budding brand as they build a following, and so I look forward to seeing their next releases.

The Longest Lyne Arms In Scotland

Ardnahoe’s commitment to using rare techniques like worm tubs and investing in the longest lyne arms in Scotland gives its whisky an extraordinary depth and complexity—something even seasoned whisky drinkers will find distinctive.

The lyne arm, or lye pipe, is the copper tube that connects the still to the condenser—in Ardnahoe’s case their worm tubs. The angle of the lyne arm is known to have a significant impact on the spirit produced, by increasing or decreasing the “reflux.” Upward angled lyne arms encourage more “reflux” which is where the condensed spirit trickles back into the still creating a lighter spirit, whereas downward angled ones encourage “carryover” where a higher proportion goes straight to the condenser.

Ardnahoe uses a descending system but their lyne arms are also the longest in Scotland. “We opted for long lyne arms to give us more copper contact in vapor form, which has the added benefit of different flavor profiles depending on how you run the stills.”

Ardnahoe Distillery Was Founded By Independent Bottlers

With roots stretching back decades as independent bottlers, the Laing family’s long-standing dream of contributing their own whisky to Islay’s legacy finally became reality with Ardnahoe. Islay’s latest distillery was founded by Stewart Laing, of Hunter Laing & Co., who are Glasgow based independent bottlers. The family can trace its industry roots to 1949 when Stewart’s father founded a whisky blending company. Stewart joined in 1964 following tenure at the Bruichladdich distillery, where the young Stewart fell in love with the classic Islay whisky style. They turned their hand to independent bottling in the late 1990s with the classic “Old Malt Cask” series.

Stewart Laing spent the intervening 60 years building a wealth of experience as an independent bottler. “Stewart has dreamed of opening a distillery since he worked at Bruichladdich as a teenager in the 1960s,” explained Andrew Laing when I asked about the decision to add a distillery to the company. “This inaugural release from Ardnahoe Distillery brings that lifelong dream to fruition.”

From Ardnahoe’s inaugural release drinkers can expect a whisky that marries peat and fruit in perfect harmony, with subtle notes of butterscotch and toffee thanks to its maturation in bourbon and sherry casks. Whether you’re a long-time Islay enthusiast or new to the region’s whiskies, Ardnahoe’s first release offers a chance to experience Islay’s newest expression firsthand.

Mark Littler

Mark Littler is the owner and editor in chief of the Whiskey Wash. He is also the owner of Mark Littler LTD, a prominent whisky and antiques brokerage service in the United Kingdom. Mark is a well known voice in the whisky industry and has a regular column at Forbes.com and has a popular YouTube channel devoted to everything whisky.

Mark completed the purchase of The Whiskey Wash in late 2023.

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