Glenmorangie has made a defining move in its evolution by increasing the age statement of its flagship expression, The Original, from 10 years to 12 years. This change marks a new chapter for the brand, enhancing the depth and maturity of a whisky loved by enthusiasts worldwide.
To understand the vision behind this transition, Dan Crowell, Keeper of the Quiach and Glenmorangie’s U.S. Brand Ambassador, spoke with Dr. Bill Lumsden, Director of Distillation, Whisky Creation, and Whisky Stocks at The Glenmorangie Company. A highly respected figure in the whisky industry, Dr. Lumsden offers his perspective on the journey that led to this decision and its significance for Glenmorangie’s future.
Your connection with Glenmorangie, particularly with the 10 Year Old, goes back quite a long way. Could you elaborate on that history?
This story has been told many, many times but I can assure you it was 100% true.
While I was studying for my PhD at Heriot-Watt University in Edinburgh, I was at a student party in Marchmont in Edinburgh when somebody put a glass of whisky into my hand. I was a little bit wary since at that time I had not drunk single malt scotch whisky before.
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I duly tasted the sample, marveled at its creamy texture, complex flavor, and fabulous aftertaste, and immediately had to find out what the whisky in question was. It was the Glenmorangie 10 Year Old, and the rest, as they say, is history.
When did the idea of moving to a 12 Year Old flagship expression for Glenmorangie originate, and what was the rationale behind it?
The idea of moving our flagship expression for Glenmorangie to a 12 Year Old has been discussed (on and off) for pretty much all of my 30-year tenure with The Glenmorangie Company. However, we (and especially me) always felt that our flagship reached perfection after 10 years of maturation so we never really explored this topic seriously.
More recently, within the last five years, myself and the team were challenged to see if we could ‘improve on perfection’.
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Happily, due to the success of the brand, and our optimistic predictions for the future we had been laying down substantial stocks of Glenmorangie for sales, and this gave me the flexibility to consider looking at different ages.
How did you feel about the idea initially?
Having extolled the virtues of our perfect 10 for many, many years, obviously I was a little bit uncomfortable at the prospect of changing it. However, I did like the idea of trying to ‘improve on perfection’
How did you approach the development of the 12-year expression?
Initially, I looked at options for using a range of different cask types. However, I very quickly rejected this as I felt very strongly that whatever the new flagship became it had to reflect the classic Glenmorangie house style.
I then looked at ratios of first-fill to second-fill bourbon barrels and also looked at a range of different ages.
Did you have any concerns going into the process of developing the Original 12?
Of course, I had some concerns, primarily that existing lovers of Glenmorangie Original may not have been happy at the prospect of their favorite dram being changed.
Many of the Glenmorangie expressions were first envisioned as distinct flavor profiles, with the production process crafted specifically to bring those imagined tastes to life. Did the Original 12 also begin in this way?
No, this was quite a different project and my target was always to very largely maintain the same style and taste profile and simply try and tweak this and if possible improve on it.
During the development process for Original 12, were there any surprises along the way?
I guess the main surprise for me was the fact that the vast majority of my internal Glenmorangie Company sensory panel actually showed a preference towards the new 12 Year Old version, which I was not expecting. Obviously, the panel tasted the new product blind versus the existing 10 Year Old.
Glenmorangie, both the distillery and the whisky, has evolved significantly during your tenure. Do you see the Original 12 as a creation in and of itself or more as the natural result of Glenmorangie’s ongoing evolution?
From my perspective, the new Original 12 is very much an evolution of the classic Glenmorangie house style. I genuinely believe that anyone who tastes the new Original 12 will find many similarities with old bottlings of Glenmorangie going back many years.
You’ve said many times that the Glenmorangie 10 Year Old is not only the first single malt scotch whisky you ever tasted, but it’s also your favorite expression in the Glenmorangie range. How has the process of developing the 12 Year Old impacted your connection with Original?
Basically, if I was not happy with the new Original 12 version it simply would not have been released so the Original continues to be my favourite expression.
Do Glenmorangie’s ‘designer casks’ play a role in the maturation of Original 12? How about the barley grown on Glenmorangie’s Cadboll Estate?
Currently, every designer cask I have is a prisoner of the recipe of Glenmorangie Original, although it is my intention that as we build up more stocks of these casks, they will be used in other expressions in the range. Currently, all of the Cadboll Estate whisky goes into a separate, unique expression.
The 12-year age statement reflects a change in the maturation schedule of Original, but were changes made to the fermentation and/or distillation protocols as well?
We are continually tweaking the primary production process to try and improve on flavor, and this sometimes involves changes to the fermentation routine, distillation cut points, etc.
However, no changes of this sort were deliberately made for the new 12 Year Old original.
How would you recommend enjoying the Glenmorangie Original 12?
Personally, my preference is to enjoy it either with a splash of water or on the rocks. However, in my traditional ‘democratic’ fashion, I want people to enjoy it however they like it themselves.
Original 12 has already received a Gold Medal at the 2024 World Whiskies Awards. What other feedback have you received so far?
We have only just relaunched Glenmorangie Original 12 Year Old and thus far I have received nothing but positive comments about it. I am confident this will continue.
If you don’t mind sharing them, what are your tasting notes on Original 12? In your opinion, what are the key flavor and aroma differences between the 10-year-old and 12-year-old expressions of Original?
The texture is silky, creamy, and almost sensuous, and leads into a truly delicious range of flavors.
Firstly, sweet notes like vanilla, fudge, white chocolate, and butter candy are encountered and as these flavors slide through the palate, there is a burst of fruitiness.
Tangy mandarin orange, ripe peach, zesty lemon, and sweet melon, along with baked pears. The subtle spices then emerge, with ginger, sweet chili, and even a hint of cardamom.
Finally, in the surprisingly lingering aftertaste, the American Oak is expressed, with some almond, coconut, and a touch of maple syrup.
Truly delicious!
As you approach your 30th anniversary at Glenmorangie, what have been some of your proudest moments? What inspires you as you look forward?
Obviously, I have had a number of proudest moments in my career with Glenmorangie. But uppermost amongst them would be the creation of Glenmorangie Signet, which to this day is totally unique in the world of single malt scotch whisky, and also the feedback I get from David MacDonald (the previous owner of the Glenmorangie Company). He is very happy that I have not totally changed the character of Glenmorangie Original.
In terms of what inspires me as I look forward, I would basically say that I look forward to many more years of creating exciting and delicious new products for both Glenmorangie and Ardbeg. My experimental lighthouse distillery will clearly play a big part in this.
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