Editor’s Note: This whisky was provided to us as a review sample by Starward. This in no way, per our editorial policies, influenced the final outcome of this review. It should also be noted that by clicking the buy link towards the bottom of this review our site receives a small referral payment which helps to support, but not influence, our editorial and other costs.
Melbourne’s Starward Distillery turned heads at this year’s San Francisco World Spirits Competition, shedding the label of up-and-comer on the world whisky scene that has followed it since its debut in 2016 and firmly establishing the brand as a distillery to pay attention to.
Starward is quick to point out to an international audience the many advantages that their location in Melbourne has to offer: ingredients, availability of wine casks, and climate. This last one may raise a few Australian eyebrows as Melbourne’s weather is well-known for what could be diplomatically phrased as its “changeability.” But it is exactly the potential for “four-seasons-in-a-day” weather that Starward’s leadership values for the unique effects that climate has on aging whisky.
The cultural climate is likewise well-suited to a boutique distillery as Melbourne is a top-tier culinary destination, and this can be clearly felt in the style and presentation of Starward’s offerings. Founder David Vitale’s longstanding interest in producing a whiskey that would work well in food pairings stems from his engagement with beer and wine, and makes Starward’s collaboration with one of Australia’s most historic winemakers such a natural fit.
All of Starward’s core offerings are aged in barrels sourced from wineries surrounding Melbourne. Octave Barrels is aged in 100 liter casks that formerly housed Yalumba’s Octavius Shiraz. These smaller volume barrels result in more interaction than usual between the aging whiskey and surface area of the cask, resulting in a more pronounced impact on the end product.
Tasting Notess: Starward Octave Barrels
Vital Stats: 3 years aged, 48% ABV, bottles priced at roughly $80
Appearance: Shades of copper with a lightish body and streaky legs.
Nose: Round, juicy aromas of ripe stone fruits and dark cherries accompanied by a hint of toasted oak.
Palate: The major notes from the aroma are present but in the reverse order. Wood takes its time opening up into fresh dark cherries and dried fruit. The sweetness of the fruit flavors builds up into a saltwater taffy finish that is unexpectedly well complemented by lingering oak notes.