Jura is one of those whiskies that can claim a whole island in Scotland to itself, at least in terms of branding. Even though it’s only sixty miles from Glasgow by plane, the isolated nature of the place is dramatic to tourists who visit. There’s one pub, one road in and out, and only a few hundred residents. Despite these quaint facts, the distillery is owned by one of the largest holding companies in the Philippines.
Jura 30-Year-Old won Best Islands Single Malt, as well as Best Islands Single Malt Over 21 Years, at the 2016 World Whiskies Awards. In 2010, Jura distillery released a 200 Year Anniversary special 21-Year-Old bottling that was finished in a Gonzalez Byass Oloroso Sherry cask from 1963. The precise age of the barrel held a special significance because it was the year that Jura distillery was rebuilt.
On the box of its Jura 21-Year-Old offering, the distillery claims that the whisky embraces “many characteristics” of the 200th anniversary commemorative bottling. It’s undeniable that the ABV percentage is the same (44%), and today’s packaging is also quite innovative, with a removable buckling top that pulls up to reveal a black multi-tiered stand for the whisky bottle to perch upon. A black and white picture of the distillery is visible though a window on the lid, adding a vintage look. The bottle itself has a feminine, curvy appearance, which even tapers in at the “waist.” In fact, it reminds me a little of a prehistoric fertility goddess.
Although Jura offers a few peated options in its core line-up, which culminate in Prophecy–a non-chill filtered, heavily peated whisky–the Jura 21 year-old is a different sort of animal. Call this whisky “domesticated,” if you wish. It’s sweet, creamy, slightly oaky, and thus appeals to a wide range of preferences.
Tasting Notes: Jura 21-Year-Old
Vital Stats: 44% ABV (88 proof); aged 21 years; 100% malted barley; price ranges from $135-$170.
Appearance: Deep copper.
Nose: Marshmallow nougat; toffee; honey; malted milk balls; wheat grass juice; cashew butter.
Palate: Rhubarb, with other stewed fruits; dry roasted peanut; cardamom, saffron; vanilla, and more toffee.
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Finish: Medium finish that finally reveals a bit of oak tannins, with a slightly bitter downturn. At the death, a phantom note of sweetness makes a come-back, revealing a bit of marshmallow nougat.
Final Thoughts
While tasting Isle of Jura 21-Year-Old, I am reminded of artificial caramel flavor (E150a). I can’t be sure the culprit is in here, or not, but I suspect a little might be–in fairly low amounts. This particular detail is usually difficult to confirm with distilleries that use caramel coloring to “brighten the corners” of what might otherwise be a fairly dull looking whisky. One thing I will say with some measure of confidence is that my taste buds can usually detect the substance, even though it is supposed to be flavorless.
The addition of water does seem to create a bit of “Scotch mist” in the glass. Because of this fact, I will go out on a limb and infer, through a feat of Sherlock Holmes-style deductive reasoning, that the whisky is not chill filtered. Bravo to the distillery for that!
Unfortunately, a few drops of water tend to accentuate the oak tannins–which, in turn, causes the spirit to taste more bitter. In and of itself, this would not usually be a problem; however, it’s worth pointing out that the sweeter notes also become a bit cloying, as sometimes happens when E150a is used.
Despite the above considerations, this whisky seems accessible enough for someone who isn’t overly particular about the craft side of distilling. I brought my bottle over to a friend’s house. Bob (my friend) has been drinking good, mid-level Scotches for the past year or two, and he wasn’t overly impressed.
That helped me to gauge what a relative newbie, with the benefit of some helpful guidance over the past year (mine), would think of the Isle of Jura 21-Year-Old. To offer a sense of perspective, Bob is used to drinking Benromach 10-Year-Old, Benromach 100, Glenfarclas 105, Old Pulteney 17-Year-Old, and Linkwood 15-Year-Old. He’s replenished his liquor cabinet many times, and it’s safe to say that he is a creature of habit when it comes to the bottles he tends to purchase. Incidentally, I also brought over a Glendronach 21-Year-Old Parliament for Bob to try, and he just loved that one.
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