Harvest Spirits is an upstate New York distillery business that grew out of a small, family-owned apple orchard called Golden Harvest Farms, established in 1957. What began as a fresh-pressed cider business evolved into the brandyfication of such juice in 2007, as the younger generation of the Grout family began to make decisions about the company’s future. They released their first product, an apple vodka, in 2008, and began claiming awards for their spirits in 2009. The most recent release, a single malt whisky, is their most ambitious, expensive, and stylistically traditional offering to date.
We first wrote about John Henry Single Malt Whiskey during its unveiling in 2015, noting the process by which it is crafted. The mash bill consists of 2-row smoked malted barley, and the finished product is aged for roughly two years in new oak and used Harvest Spirits Applejack barrels (which began life, mostly, as Woodford Reserve barrels). Further digging shows that Adirondack Brewery produces their wash, a perfect upstate New York marriage of alcoholic bliss.
Harvest’s attempt to tackle such a historical, well-defined style will surely draw all sorts of criticism from purists. Their approach to distilling from the outset, however, has been an “innovative” one, determined to craft things “made from (farm) surplus,” much like our understanding of the ancient history of single malt whisky. After tasting it, yes, this is completely nontraditional, but there is much to be excited about in this American bottle of single malt.
Tasting Notes: Harvest Spirits’ John Henry Single Malt Whiskey
Vital Stats: 84 proof. Double distilled from 2-row smoked & malted barley. Wash brewed at Great Adirondack Brewing Company. House-distilled. No age statement. Finished in new oak and used Applejack barrels. $55 for a 750ml.
Appearance: Light and airy yet brilliant appearance with a golden tinge reminiscent of, well, apple juice. Sufficiently sticky legs exist while the liquid itself seems void of viscosity as it swirls speedily in the glass.
Nose: Surprisingly, seeking out aromas of smoke in this whisky proves almost impossible. There is a big punch of new leather up front, some Maillard notes with another big push of baking bread. There is a slight phenolic note reminiscent of classic single malt, albeit faint, but more plastic-y than Iodine.
Palate: Simply unexpected. The toasty, nutty, bread-like aroma combined with the luxurious, slippery body of the whisky combine to make the introduction to my palate a very warming and satisfying one. Mid-palate, there is sufficient heat present but not overly done, and the finish begins with an earthy woodiness and a bit of surprising salinity.
The barrels really shine in the late palate, bringing a balancing sweetness through hints of toasted marshmallow and treacle. There may be a bit of ashy or sooty astringency in the finish, but not achieving a complex twist that I’d call ‘smoky.’
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Final Thoughts:
This is a single malt whisky from a bourbon-inspired country. The sharpness and intensity found in many stylistically similar drinks is present, although in small, refined doses. The use of bourbon/applejack barrels lends a laid-back drinkability and cohesiveness to the final product. Its supposed youth is masked by the delicate application of various oak treatments.
While the aforementioned purists may not hold this up as a righteous example of tradition, John Henry Single Malt Whiskey is certainly worth sipping, and mixing is ill-advised.
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