The word “glen” means “valley,” usually a long, deep one with a pronounced watershed running through it. The term is quintessentially Scottish.
Although Speyside whiskies often hail from distillery names starting with “glen,” the term is not specific to the Speyside region of Scotland. In fact, most scholars contend that it began in the Highlands. Of course, geographically speaking, the Speyside whisky region is, itself, located in the Highlands. Whatever the case, a very distinguished Lowland whisky bears the name Glenkinchie.
Glenkinchie distillery first began producing whisky around 1825. It was originally known as Milton distillery, and then was quickly changed to its present namesake after a little over a decade had passed. Nearly two hundred years later, the business is still going strong, with a production capacity of 2,700,000 liters.
The Glenkinchie 20 Year Old Limited Edition single malt Scotch, currently under review, was aged in refill American oak. Thank goodness folks in management had the good sense to bottle this lovely stuff at cask strength. Seven years have come and gone since it was originally released. Bottles hit store shelves as part of the 2010 Diageo Special Releases.
I’m happy to report this limited offering successfully marries a typically Lowland style of whisky to the realm of well-balanced, sweet ‘n easy drinking. Some might call this a marriage made in heaven, especially those whisky lovers who shrink like violets at the thought of imbibing a robust peaty whisky, or who cringe when offered an explosive sherry bomb.
Tasting Notes: Glenkinchie 20 Year Old
Vital Stats: Glenkinchie 20 Year Old Limited Edition; aged in refill American oak casks; 55.1% ABV / 110.2 Proof (cask strength); single malt Lowland Scotch whisky; 750ml; price ranges from $160-$240.
Appearance: Jonquiripe corn with some well-defined legs that tend towards diminutive beading. Slick diadems adorn the edges of one’s glass like a Lowland “crown.” While turning my glencairn along a tilted axis, I can see the whisky is somewhat oily, and that heightens my expectations.
Nose: Grassy and floral notes mingle in a delightful Lowland style. Apples and pears join in, along with lemon zest. Oh, wow…this scent is intoxicating, to say the least. There is a custardy note that refrains from being overly sugary. There’s a noticeable oak presence from twenty years spent in refill casks, although the woodiness is not even close to dominating. Instead, tannins gently add a sprinkle of cinnamon atop creme brulee.
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Palate: This 20-year-old Glenkinchie is not quite as oily as I’d expected. Tell-tale lemon zest comes through brightly, along with pear, apple, and some bitter herbage. Clover honey hovers in the background, along with marzipan. Is there allspice, you ask? Oh hell yeah, along with a hint of cinnamon that tingles delightfully, thanks to cask strength ABV.
Water brings out the bottom end of this single malt. A few drops are all that is needed to freshen one’s dram like a flower in the morning sun. Golden petals open magically, revealing hints of inner oakiness and toasted barley, along with trace minerals that add even more complexity to an already complex presentation.
Finish: Twenty years spent slumbering in refill oak casks bring a curl of tobacco to the tip of one’s tongue. I’m reminded of a Criollo cigar wrapper. Now comes green apples and pears. Yes, the under-ripe combination is a little on the bitter side. But this transition helps to balance out a remarkably smooth palate . . . adding complexity, and keeping the whole shebang from turning sickly-sweet. Very nice, very nice. I hereby dub this finish long, yet bracing–what some enthusiasts might even venture to call “immaculate.”
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