Scotch

Whisky Review: GlenDronach Allardice 18-Year-Old

We review GlenDronach Allardice 18-Year-Old, a laid-back sherry bomb from a nearly 200-year-old Scotch distillery.

OVERALL RATING

8
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Tasting Notes

About:

GlenDronach 18 Year Old Allardice; 46% ABV; May 15, 2014 OB; LH30430.
Appearance:
Burnished mahogany. The legs are nice and oily, with phat beads that stroll down the sides of your glass at their leisure. Oh yeah. This one’s a big boy.
Nose:
Oloroso casks immediately come the fore, with dates, prunes, and raisins. Powdered chocolate. There’s also a subtle yet savory thing going on here, which reminds me of rich meaty juices from a bison steak, and perhaps a hint of bone broth. Now comes a charming dairy note that smooths out the fruits in a swirling mandala…and yet, the dairy has a sour cream edge, helping to restrain sugar plum faeries’ “sweet nothings,” which might otherwise outstay their welcome on the tongue. Any wood presence is restrained here, offering a diminutive dose of nut fruits (yes, nuts are indeed a kind of fruit). Brazil nuts, to be precise. Thankfully, any gun powder presence that I’ve tasted in older bottlings of Allardice is absent. Not a big fan of sulfur. I also believe GlenDronach has improved on some older bottlings, which fell slightly flat. It goes without saying that this dram evokes a lively, festive quality, imparting alegría de la vida at 46% ABV.
Palate:
As expected, dried sweet fruits–dates, figs, raisins–assert themselves with all the gusto of high quality Spanish casks. Yum. Or is it rum? Yes, the fruits do seem as though they’ve been drizzled with black strap rum. Never a dull moment, as the plot thickens, offering a decadently oily mouth feel. Granted, this dram may not be the Mohammed Ali of sherry bombs, but it is most decidedly a heavy weight, and it comes out swinging. The transition from sweet dried dark fruit notes, into a mixture of wood tannins, is truly delightful: allspice and cumin join the party, along with powdered milk chocolate. Again, the complexity here is not mind-blowing. When compared with GlenDronach’s 15-Year-Old and 21-Year-Old OB’s, the Allardice feels somewhat laid back, and creamy. Finish: Medium in length. Fruit and spice lingers without any notable heat, which is to be expected at forty-six percent; however, I’ve tasted far “hotter” drams at the same ABV that blasted my tastebuds unpleasantly. Yes, there is fruit cake (what Scottish whisky critics term “Christmas cake). As for the death, I’m happy to report that powdered chocolate is the last flavor to give up the ghost. Allardice 18 Year-Old vs. Parliament 21 Year-Old As you might imagine, GlenDronach’s 21 Parliament is more complex than the 18-Year-Old bottle under consideration, and also a touch more graceful, with a longer finish. The nose is admittedly deeper, richer, with far more subtle nuances, and some wood presence. Allardice, on the other hand, sees fit to lactate a creamery note, with lovely hints of multi-faceted Oloroso sherry, albeit with a very laid-back wood presence that’s hardly noticeable. My bottling of Allardice conveys an unapologetic, full bodied potency that creates an oily mouth feel. Yes, indeed. A pure malt essence comes through in a way that is noticeably lacking in the Parliament, which retails in the United States for about $180. Is this older single malt worth the extra $40-odd dollars? Well, perhaps. Check out my October 7th review , and decide for yourself. (The bottle of Parliament that I currently have open was bottled on September 23, 2015.) It’s also worth noting that Parliament displays more of a conspicuous alcohol presence, especially after a few sips, despite putting on airs of sophistication. Yes, its ABV is a few points higher, but I don’t think that is the deciding factor. There is a faintly cloying, spirited element in Parliament that was mostly absent from single cask Oloroso and PX bottlings a few years ago–many of which expressed even less of an alcohol tang at a higher ABV than anything in GlenDronach’s core range. Final Thoughts and Score: Glendronach 18-Year-Old Allardice bewitches one’s palate with a nice, full-bodied, syrupy mouth feel. Only high quality Oloroso casks are capable of delivering this sort of satisfaction, without the sugary-sweet “overkill” that PX casks sometimes produce. Due to my experience with single cask releases, I can say with some measure of confidence that Oloroso wood is ideally suited to bring out the bawdy side of GlenDronach’s distillery character. I certainly don’t regret owning a bottle of a nearly full 18-Year-Old Allardice , and I look forward to buying the 2015 release, as well. In these trying times, when older whiskies are becoming few and far between, 18 years spent aging in high quality Spanish casks is something of a luxury.
Finish:
Medium in length. Fruit and spice lingers without any notable heat, which is to be expected at forty-six percent; however, I’ve tasted far “hotter” drams at the same ABV that blasted my tastebuds unpleasantly. Yes, there is fruit cake (what Scottish whisky critics term “Christmas cake). As for the death, I’m happy to report that powdered chocolate is the last flavor to give up the ghost.
Comments:

Editor’s Note: This whiskey was either bought as a sample by The Whiskey Wash or provided to us as a review sample by the party behind it. Per our editorial policies, this in no way influenced the outcome of this review.

Whisky Kirk

Kirk Sig's fascination with Scottish whisky ignited in 1987 during a visit to Edinburgh. In the ensuing three and a half decades, he has cultivated an extensive understanding of distilleries, the whisky industry, and the global whisky landscape.

Kirk prides himself on providing candid and unvarnished reviews, eschewing the prevalent flattery and fluff that often permeate whisky commentary. This direct approach has occasionally ruffled feathers in influential circles, which he views as a testament to his commitment to prioritize the interests of the consumer.

Embracing the spirit of investigative journalism, Kirk's reviews delve deeper, leaving no stone—or cask—unturned. He believes in transparency and ensures that readers are privy to any noteworthy findings, fostering an informed and empowered whisky community.

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