Scotch

Whisky Review: GlenDronach 25 Year Old 1990 Kingsman Edition

We review GlenDronach 25 Year Old 1990 Kingsman Edition, a limited edition Scotch tied to the Kingsman movie franchise.

OVERALL RATING

10
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Tasting Notes

About:

70cl; single malt Scotch; 48.2% ABV / 96.4 proof; suggested retail price $700. This price has already nudged up higher in the marketplace. Expect to see bottles sell at auction, in the not-so-distant future, for over a thousand dollars.
Appearance:
Amber with golden highlights, these legs have magnificent form. They are long and thin, with ample beads that roll gingerly down the sides of my tulip glass. In fact, the metaphor of “legs” tends to break down when confronted by whisky this good. Instead, I’m picturing the image of a king’s crown adorned with yellow diamonds.
Nose:
Tiramisu; caramel nougat; peanut; rose petals; white chocolate. Mmm. High quality sherry casks come through, offering both sweet notes, as well as oakiness. I’m getting plum, golden raisin, rhubarb pie, coconut, and cut cedar. There are also subtler (industrial) notes of furniture polish (Lemon Pledge) and beeswax–which, together, remind me of an old Springbank Local Barley (bottled long before the fairly recent 11 or the 16).
Palate:
Sweet, fruity, and woody notes all comingle with amazing grace. Balvenie Tun 1401 Batch 3 comes to mind. Curious. In the mouth, this dram isn’t anything like a venerable old Springer. As time passes, even the nose seems sweeter. Funny that, but I think I’m in love. One thing which immediately stands out about Kingsman is the way caramel and twenty-five years of oak tannins join forces to become a single bittersweet note. It’s a force to be reckoned with . . . weaving its way like a golden thread betwixt major arcana. Ee gads, somebody pinch me. Am I dreaming? Other tastes march out of my glass in the following order: Flan; Turbinado sugar; milk chocolate; raisin; prune; Medjool date; young green coconut (a personal favorite); almond; saltwater boiled peanut; orange blossom; orange pekoe tea; all spice; white pepper. Finish: Nut meats take over, before sacrificing their lives on a death bed of Chinese white pepper. Can you feel the May Queen dance across your clapper? Now that’s magick! There’s no sense in believing that your tongue is divided into four tasting areas, which run the gamut from bitter to sweet. This whisky proves such a theory to be false, and scientists in the 21st Century tend to agree. My tongue is glad for “all a’ that.” The tip is tingling with a spicy finish that refuses to wink out.
Finish:
Nut meats take over, before sacrificing their lives on a death bed of Chinese white pepper. Can you feel the May Queen dance across your clapper? Now that’s magick!
Comments:
According to a GlenDronach spokesperson, this whisky was matured in sherry casks from birth. One quarter of a century–now, that’s a long time to count rosary beads in sweet oak. Angels, take your share, but leave the rest for Ishkabibble to ply his bloody trade.rnrnForget the industry-insider term, “sherry bomb.” Holy explosion, Batman. This handsome bottle is an Improvised Explosive Device waiting to detonate a melange of sweet nothings. Boo-yah! We’re talking about the finest commemorative IED that money can buy.rnrnI’m giving this special 25 Year Old GlenDronach two thumbs way up. If you can afford to drop 550 quid on a bottle of Scotch, and you love films that feature well-coiffed agents jumping over speeding cars while dodging bullets . . . well then, this is definitely the Sherry IED for you.rnrnAs for commemorating Kingsman, the film, let’s hope Eggsy has graduated to single malt Scotch in 2017. Back in 2014, when a waiter asked “sir” for his drink order, I seem to recall Eggsy saying, “Martini. Gin, not vodka, obviously. Stirred for ten seconds while glancing an an unopened bottle of vermouth.”

Editor’s Note: This whiskey was either bought as a sample by The Whiskey Wash or provided to us as a review sample by the party behind it. Per our editorial policies, this in no way influenced the outcome of this review.

Whisky Kirk

Kirk Sig's fascination with Scottish whisky ignited in 1987 during a visit to Edinburgh. In the ensuing three and a half decades, he has cultivated an extensive understanding of distilleries, the whisky industry, and the global whisky landscape.

Kirk prides himself on providing candid and unvarnished reviews, eschewing the prevalent flattery and fluff that often permeate whisky commentary. This direct approach has occasionally ruffled feathers in influential circles, which he views as a testament to his commitment to prioritize the interests of the consumer.

Embracing the spirit of investigative journalism, Kirk's reviews delve deeper, leaving no stone—or cask—unturned. He believes in transparency and ensures that readers are privy to any noteworthy findings, fostering an informed and empowered whisky community.

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