Bourbon

Whiskey Roundup: Laws Whiskey House

We review four A.D. Laws whiskeys from Denver-based Laws Whiskey House, an all-whiskey distillery dedicated to doing it right.

OVERALL RATING

6
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A.D. LAWS FOUR GRAIN BOURBON

Tasting Notes

About:

60% corn, 20% wheat, 10% rye, 10% barley. Aged three years. 95 proof. A bottle costs about $60. Appearance: The color of nubuck leather. Composition depends on which recipe it is. 100 proof, aged more than two years. A bottle costs about $80. 100 proof, 60% corn, 20% wheat, 10% rye, 10% barley, 100 proof, aged four years. Appearance: More reddish than the other three; strawberry blond.
Appearance:
Dark orange, pine sap wood. A cooler color than the 4-grain bourbon or the rye. Like slightly tarnished brass. Or sand at sunset. Nose: Strong. Very wheat-forward. Like breakfast toast with honey, or a hot cinnamon raisin bagel. Palate: Cinnamon raisin bagel also comes through on the palate. Pleasant mouthfeel, though a little tingly by the finish. Thoughts and Score: It’s nice. It’s well-constructed. It’s made with care. But I’m not real excited. I’d be fine with having it on my shelf as a staple, but it just doesn’t send me. Tasting Notes: A.D. Laws Four Grain Straight Bourbon Bottled in Bond Bottled in Bond means that a whiskey is a product of a single season, uses the grain of a single season, is made by one distiller at a single distillery, and gets aged at least four years in a federal government-bonded warehouse. The whiskey is then cut and bottled at 100 proof. Vital stats: 100 proof, 60% corn, 20% wheat, 10% rye, 10% barley, 100 proof, aged four years. Appearance: More reddish than the other three; strawberry blond.
Nose:
Not your typical bourbon scent. It’s quite vegetal: green pepper, pea shoots. An early spring garden. Also, orange peel. Palate: It doesn’t have that sweet bourbon mouth feel, either. It starts a little spicier – a cross between a rye and a Scotch. Finishes clean and smooth, with little burn. I like this; it’s got just enough barley to be different, but not harsh or cereal-like. Thoughts and Score: Quite pleasant, though atypical. More earthy than fruity or sweet. I feel this could be good in a cocktail with a sweet component to balance it out. Tasting Notes: AD Laws Secale Straight Rye Whiskey image via Laws Whiskey House Here’s some trivia: The name “Secale” comes from the Latin name for rye–“secale cereal.” Vital stats: 95% rye, 5% barley, 100 proof, aged three years, about $56 a bottle. Appearance: Dark orange, pine sap wood. Nose: Say cheese, everyone! But it’s not like, cheesy in a bad way. Not like feet. Instead, think a good rind, like a boozy Spanish manchego. Also, lemon zest. Cut beefsteak tomatoes, fermented berries—the kind on the ground that the bees have already gotten to. Also, varnish.
Palate:
It doesn’t have that sweet bourbon mouth feel, either. It starts a little spicier – a cross between a rye and a Scotch. Finishes clean and smooth, with little burn. I like this; it’s got just enough barley to be different, but not harsh or cereal-like. Thoughts and Score: Quite pleasant, though atypical. More earthy than fruity or sweet. I feel this could be good in a cocktail with a sweet component to balance it out. Tasting Notes: AD Laws Secale Straight Rye Whiskey image via Laws Whiskey House Here’s some trivia: The name “Secale” comes from the Latin name for rye–“secale cereal.” Vital stats: 95% rye, 5% barley, 100 proof, aged three years, about $56 a bottle. Appearance: Dark orange, pine sap wood. Nose: Say cheese, everyone! But it’s not like, cheesy in a bad way. Not like feet. Instead, think a good rind, like a boozy Spanish manchego. Also, lemon zest. Palate: This is light and elegant on the palate. It’s got the chewy quality of rye but also refinement. It has a light fruity element. Nutty, like cashews. Cashews are good. Thoughts and Score: Good lord, this is delightful. If I could give half-stars, I’d probably give this a 4.5. Tasting Notes: AD Laws Triticum Straight Wheat Whiskey More trivia: Triticum is Latin for wheat, and is pronounced “trit-e-come.” This recipe has two versions: Recipe A, which is 100% wheat, and Recipe B, which is 96% wheat, 4% barley. Vital stats: Composition depends on which recipe it is. 100 proof, aged more than two years. A bottle costs about $80. Appearance: A cooler color than the 4-grain bourbon or the rye. Like slightly tarnished brass. Or sand at sunset. Nose: Strong. Very wheat-forward. Like breakfast toast with honey, or a hot cinnamon raisin bagel. Palate: Cinnamon raisin bagel also comes through on the palate. Pleasant mouthfeel, though a little tingly by the finish. Thoughts and Score: It’s nice. It’s well-constructed. It’s made with care. But I’m not real excited. I’d be fine with having it on my shelf as a staple, but it just doesn’t send me. Tasting Notes: A.D. Laws Four Grain Straight Bourbon Bottled in Bond Bottled in Bond means that a whiskey is a product of a single season, uses the grain of a single season, is made by one distiller at a single distillery, and gets aged at least four years in a federal government-bonded warehouse. The whiskey is then cut and bottled at 100 proof. Vital stats: 100 proof, 60% corn, 20% wheat, 10% rye, 10% barley, 100 proof, aged four years. Appearance: More reddish than the other three; strawberry blond. Nose: Cut beefsteak tomatoes, fermented berries—the kind on the ground that the bees have already gotten to. Also, varnish. Palate: The tomato flavor carries through, and it’s quite nice. It’s a little savory, with an umami feel. It has that chewy rye quality, slightly heavier on the palate. Thoughts and Score: This is much different than the aforementioned four-grain, so much so that I’m surprised they come from the same mix. I’m intrigued by this and interested and it’s a one-of-a-kind product. More, please. Laws, yes!
Finish:
Comments:

Editor’s Note: This whiskey was either bought as a sample by The Whiskey Wash or provided to us as a review sample by the party behind it. Per our editorial policies, this in no way influenced the outcome of this review.

Carin Moonin

Carin Moonin swapped a 5th-floor walkup in Hoboken, NJ, for a house in SE Portland a decade ago and hasn't looked back. She appreciates Portland's vibrant whiskey scene, finding it complements both the weather and her mood. Carin enjoys exploring the diverse world of brown liquor and its many facets. Her writing has been featured in publications such as Salon.com, DailyDot.com, Willamette Week, Portland Monthly, and others. When she's not indulging in whiskey or writing about it, you can find Carin running, reading, or on the hunt for free samples in grocery stores.

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