Editor’s Note: This whiskey was provided to us as a review sample by New Riff Distilling. This in no way, per our editorial policies, influenced the final outcome of this review. It should also be noted that by clicking the buy link towards the bottom of this review our site receives a small referral payment which helps to support, but not influence, our editorial and other costs.
Located on the Kentucky side of the Ohio River in the Greater Cincinnati area, New Riff Distilling has been producing unique spirits since the distillery was founded in 2014 by Ken Lewis. The distillery projects a staunchly independent ethos. Their values indicate their view that maintaining a tight circle of stakeholders is the best way to ensure quality and allow room to “riff.”
Their use of the word “riff” is a nice double-entendre that lets you know what to expect from their whiskey. In music (especially music based in the blues) a riff is the repeated melody or rhythm that forms the structural backbone of a song, but it also has come to mean verbal improvisation that departs from or subverts an established theme or idea. On the one hand, New Riff makes a point of engaging with established traditions of sour-mash fermentation and pot-distilling gin. On the other, they have shown a willingness to tweak their process in minor ways, aging gin in whiskey barrels, or turning the rye content of a mashbill up to 11. New Riff’s communications team has struck a balance between expressing respect for history and tradition and a willingness, even eagerness to experiment and push boundaries.
New Riff can boast of the craft brewing background on their leadership and distilling team, and their series of “Whiskey Riffs” which incorporate process wrinkles and/or non-traditional grains into their mash bills is reminiscent of craft beer’s experimental spirit. Their exploration of heirloom grains is definitely worth following. One of these is their Straight Bourbon, featuring a mash of 70% corn, 5% malted barley, and 25% Red Turkey Wheat. Red Turkey is a winter wheat, popular with bakers for its flavor and versatility, and with growers for its hardiness. The variety came to North America with Russian Mennonite immigrants in the late 19th Century. This is the first I’ve heard of it being used in spirits production, so I’m definitely interested to give this a taste!
Tasting Notes: New Riff Red Turkey Wheat Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Vital Stats: Aged at least 5 years, 100 proof, retails at $48
Appearance: Golden color, with a moderate but noticeable weight and viscosity.
Nose: Very classic bourbon aromas of dark cherry (cherry skin in particular) and oak dominate, but with a grainy-grassy undertone.
Palate: The protein-rich wheat adds a bit of weight to the mouthfeel of oak, citrus zest, and cherry flavors that transition into fresh baked bread and very light sour-mash funk.
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