American

Whiskey Review: J.W. Kelly & Co. Melrose Rye

We review J.W. Kelly & Co. Melrose Rye Whiskey, a whiskey that's finished in ex-red Italian wine barrels and tied to a resurrected whiskey label out of Tennessee.

OVERALL RATING

6
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J.W. Kelly & Co. Melrose Rye

Tasting Notes

About:

Rye “double-barreled” whiskey aged at least two years in American oak barrels, then aged further in Amarone wine casks, and bottled at 46% ABV. Sold for about $60 per 750mL bottle.
Appearance:
In a glass, Melrose rye has a bit of a darker color than the median for whiskey giving it a reddish, coppery hue, but it is still well within the realm of normal.
Nose:
The first aroma that enters the nose comes with a heavy dose of the clove and ginger combination that I find typical of rye giving it an earthy, spicy, and slightly tangy scent. In this case, the combination also includes a touch of vanilla along with a pronounced note of dried stone fruit, which add an interesting coolness to the bouquet that reminds me of spearmint. The spices fade to make room for a sherry-like combination to take center stage, characterized by notes of prunes, raisins, and a bit of salt, with light touches of orange and molasses.
Palate:
Entry into the mouth is unusually sweet, hitting the tongue like a sweet caramel sauce with a bit of a smoky character and just faint touches of dried fruit. That sweetness seems to persist for an unusually long period of time, all the while spicy notes of cloves, nutmeg, and just a bit of ginger are building up almost imperceptibly until they become a moderate roar on the tongue. Swallowing sends a stronger wave of those spices rushing through the mouth. That then fades into a sweet finish with flavors of raisin, molasses, oak, and a touch of orange with occasional flares of mild spice.
Finish:
Comments:
While I’ve always considered myself a sweet tooth in terms of whiskey, Melrose may be one of the rare drams that goes beyond my limit. From the first sip, the sweet notes overpower all of the other elements of this whiskey, particularly raisin, caramel, and molasses. That’s not to say Melrose is bad or lacking complexity – other flavors like clove, ginger, and oak manage to punch through at times ­– but it’s akin to a decadent, rich dessert that’s only satisfying to enjoy in small proportions from time to time.

Editor’s Note: This whiskey was either bought as a sample by The Whiskey Wash or provided to us as a review sample by the party behind it. Per our editorial policies, this in no way influenced the outcome of this review.

Aaron Knapp

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