We wrote about Chicago craft distiller Koval earlier this year in an in-depth piece about the distillery’s history and vision.the craft whiskey renaissance we are so lucky to be experiencing right now in the US.
Koval bourbon itself appears caramel in the glass, akin to what we would normally expect from a stereotypical bourbon. However, on the nose it becomes immediately clear that Koval is no average bourbon. Ethanol behind tart tropical fruit immediately hits the nose, followed by subtle sweetness, pepper, and melted butter. Koval doesn’t strike the nose as a typical bourbon expression.
On the palate, the first impression is remarkably like Smarties. The addition of millet to corn yields a soft chalkiness to the spirit, which is expressed in a sweet, starchy manner as opposed to a tannic manner. The warm tropical tart elements on the nose follow through on Koval’s finish. Like chewing the paper that always sticks to candy buttons, Koval leaves a pleasant powdery taste on the palate after sipping, in addition to dried fruit and pepper. Sulphured apricots come to mind last.
At around $50 for 750 ml, Koval is certainly not a cheap bourbon. However, simply for the childlike mirth of tasting Koval for the first time, I would absolutely recommend the spirit to anyone looking to shake up their conception of what American bourbon is today.
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The ingenuity and clear vision behind the spirit, in addition to its truly unique take on bourbon, merit it a 94.
